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Recent Forum comments
- verticalpope : bingo
- verticalpope : pins
- welderonice : Leave the pins
- verticalpope : removal
- verticalpope : responsibility
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Hey!!
Sounded like you were having fun on Septre!! I was the one climbing Bingo, and it is in 'climbable' shape. still thin, however, the back side is getting enough ice to hold weight. It was wet, and the transfer onto the curtain is steep. bring a bar of soap for a dirt bag shower while you belay the second up!
Was there today as well, and a lot more stuff was falling off. I think it would still be climb-able tomorrow EARLY. Good luck!!
I completely agree. . .thanks.
If you want to climb all natural then dont clip the pins and you did it all natural
some people might still appreciate them being there
Joe,
the lawn chair WILL be removed from the cave. I know the last day is the 31st, and before then you will no longer see it.
thanks for the note on trash
My friend and I are the ones who hiked the lawn chair up to bingo cave, AND the rope. I spend many hours cleaning out trash in hyalite, and I see no problem having a lawn chair in Bingo. I climbed Northwest Passage, and the chair was nice for the belayer. It was also nice when Sam sent Inglorious Bastards. Cimbing Gear is not trash. I clean up Trash. Every day. My friend cleans up GARBAGE bags of trash in the spring when the snow melts. The chair is nice alternative to a crick in the neck. If you still have a problem with it, I will remove it.
Hi all,
I'm with Alan and think jetsam like lawn chairs and bags should not be left around Hyalite. I mean really, do you really need a lawn chair at the Bingo Cave? The killer access we've been enjoying all winter is not guaranteed. It's all dependent primarily on funding from the USFS and County plus anything the public can raise or is willing to contribute. With budgets being what they are, I would put it a 50-50 chance the funding could dry up at any moment. Thus, we need to treat Hyalite and the surrounding landscape with respect and care. Remember, it was exactly this sort of behavior that almost closed the Scorched Earth crag years ago.
If you are responsible for leaving the lawn chairs, etc at the Unnamed Wall, please remove them soon or at least let us know that you will be done and removing it soon. The road closes on March 31 and i will make a point of going up there before then to clean up any garbage I find. Without knowing your intentions for the chairs, I'll have to assume you plan on abandoning them. PM me if you want to stay anonymous.
As far as flotsam goes, it is pathetic that anyone would leave cans or tea bags, or any other litter, around. Come on folks! I thought the "pack it in -- pack it out" battle was won years ago. It's lame!
Onward,
Joe Josephson
Climbed Scepter and Mummy II yesterday. The high traffic & sun are showing on Mummy II, but still good climbing. Scepter is showing almost no signs of the warm temps & sun and didn't seem to have been getting much traffic. Still huge & blue with lots of fun chandaliers. I'm guessing it's going to be good through the end of the month.
Also, looked like Bingo world was touching down, but getting LOTS of sun. Saw someone climb it and would love to know what kind of shape it's in...
I found some gear at Champagne Sherbet Saturday 3/13/10. Since I live in Helena I left it at Northern Lights on my way out of town. Stop by there and ask if you lost it. JC
I climb in Hyalite almost every day. . .looking to get out on whatever. . .call me at 208.596.1596 weekdays are great.
CRAIG
yes it did. fun transfering to the ice on the right. . .and you can still get stems back to the ice on left!!
Question on fixed pins:
To my knowledge, I thought the original line slighted right after the initial ice flow, then back left into the open-book dihedral. Before I led it this year, I rappelled the route and checked all the pins with a hammer to see how they weathered. This is Hyalite rock, right?? The route I ended up leading, however, did not slight right OR left. It is a direct line, and I place one lost arrow in that direct line where the gear was questionable/non-existent. I then came back with a chainsaw and eliminated the fallen log on top to add to the quality of the route itself, and the ease of rappelling when finished.
I heard that someone is planning on pulling the pins so that they can lead it on all natural gear, and I have a problem with that. I'm wondering if me getting bent about someone pulling fixed pins, (and what constitutes a 'fixed pin'), is justifiable, as well as if it was ethical for me to put in a pin on the direct variation. Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
If I were to lead it without clipping pins, I would do just that. Not pull them.??
thanks,
CRAIG
Climbed Spagetti Falls and Upper Rosebud Falls on 2/27/10. The was solid and not too brittle. The snow in the gullies of the approaches was kind of scary, with some fresh snow it wouldn't take much to slide. Cali looked huge from the trail.
Climbed it again 3/6/10 and it was way bigger than around christmas! Easy Approach and good ice. The bolts on the right are easy to get to now.
went and did the champagne stuff on thursday. everything was in really good condition, super fun and not picked-out. Champagne sherbet was just a little brittle int he headwall but other than that it was in awesome shape. super good ski trail all the way in from the gate until the hike through the woods at the end.
probably going up there wednesday next week.
Come and Get It last year: 12 March 09
formed a bit different:
Anyone been up to Cleo's recently? What's the word?
I believe these are mine, I will give you a call!
Thanks
Hello Horsesausage,
The FS closes vehicle access on 31 March making the trek quite a bit longer. Shady climbs last until mid-April and many "seldom seens" make an appearance. Lots of good fun.
Thanks for coming to visit.
went and did scepter and mummy 2 yesterday. both were in great conditions. scepter was a little chandeliered at the bottom but the whole thing was hero ice once you broke through the chandeliers. mummy 2 was pretty brittle and dinner-platey towards the top.
it's simple really. lots of things have dribbled into place. whispering ice is connected. (it was fatter last year...)
people have been whacking away on the upper tiers, there's some great hooking practice, some thin lines that go. hike up and around to access more 50' pillars. there's quite a few obscure classics, it's just montana. classic- to do once in awhile because of the 'conditions' and approach.
Anyone been up to California Ice recently? Sounds like it was in great shape about a month ago, just wondering if conditions have changed drastically since then.
Thanks!
Hey,
I noticed a pair of 500s at Sierra Trading post in Cody this week for 225 and right now theyve got 20% off of all footwear. When I asked they said that included bindings... Might be worth grabing, I was mighty inticed.
A friend and I linked up Slot Corner and Land of the Lost on V-day. Get it before it snows again, we broke the trail in about 100 meters past the 2nd meadow after Grotto Falls. Hiking to the base involved some post-holing but nothing compared to the uphill swimming that took place between Slot Corner's 2nd pitch, and Land of the Lost's 1st pitch, in a few places it was nipple deep, its much nicer now so get after it. The "real" pitch on slot was some of the worst ice, protect-ably speaking, although one swing one sink the ice tool clear to the head so it wasn't strenuous, but in the sun it was rather slushy. Land of the Lost was superb climbing on both pitches and really enjoyable. Outstanding views from the top; definitely worth the slog. With a little rope management you can rap it all with a single 60m rope.
what a bummer... i don't think there was even one climbable day in that canyon this season.
As of Feb 11, 2010 approach conditions are cake, there is hardly a trace of snow. Woodbine is in great shape and there isn't much open water. Nyes Ice also looks to be in good shape but there are new employees at the Stillwater Mine who seem to be totally unfamiliar with climber interests and it's unclear whether or not you can get legit permission. Oh and if your headed down there beware of the construction between Columbus and Absarokee. They may or may NOT have their speed limit signs out....