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Recent Forum comments
- verticalpope : climbing partners
- verticalpope : yes it did. fun transfering
- benboldt : Climbed Spagetti Falls and
- benboldt : Climbed it again 3/6/10 and
- akline : went and did the champagne
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I climb in Hyalite almost every day. . .looking to get out on whatever. . .call me at 208.596.1596 weekdays are great.
CRAIG
yes it did. fun transfering to the ice on the right. . .and you can still get stems back to the ice on left!!
Question on fixed pins:
To my knowledge, I thought the original line slighted right after the initial ice flow, then back left into the open-book dihedral. Before I led it this year, I rappelled the route and checked all the pins with a hammer to see how they weathered. This is Hyalite rock, right?? The route I ended up leading, however, did not slight right OR left. It is a direct line, and I place one lost arrow in that direct line where the gear was questionable/non-existent. I then came back with a chainsaw and eliminated the fallen log on top to add to the quality of the route itself, and the ease of rappelling when finished.
I heard that someone is planning on pulling the pins so that they can lead it on all natural gear, and I have a problem with that. I'm wondering if me getting bent about someone pulling fixed pins, (and what constitutes a 'fixed pin'), is justifiable, as well as if it was ethical for me to put in a pin on the direct variation. Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
If I were to lead it without clipping pins, I would do just that. Not pull them.??
thanks,
CRAIG
Climbed Spagetti Falls and Upper Rosebud Falls on 2/27/10. The was solid and not too brittle. The snow in the gullies of the approaches was kind of scary, with some fresh snow it wouldn't take much to slide. Cali looked huge from the trail.
Climbed it again 3/6/10 and it was way bigger than around christmas! Easy Approach and good ice. The bolts on the right are easy to get to now.
went and did the champagne stuff on thursday. everything was in really good condition, super fun and not picked-out. Champagne sherbet was just a little brittle int he headwall but other than that it was in awesome shape. super good ski trail all the way in from the gate until the hike through the woods at the end.
probably going up there wednesday next week.
Come and Get It last year: 12 March 09
formed a bit different:
Anyone been up to Cleo's recently? What's the word?
I believe these are mine, I will give you a call!
Thanks
Hello Horsesausage,
The FS closes vehicle access on 31 March making the trek quite a bit longer. Shady climbs last until mid-April and many "seldom seens" make an appearance. Lots of good fun.
Thanks for coming to visit.
went and did scepter and mummy 2 yesterday. both were in great conditions. scepter was a little chandeliered at the bottom but the whole thing was hero ice once you broke through the chandeliers. mummy 2 was pretty brittle and dinner-platey towards the top.
it's simple really. lots of things have dribbled into place. whispering ice is connected. (it was fatter last year...)
people have been whacking away on the upper tiers, there's some great hooking practice, some thin lines that go. hike up and around to access more 50' pillars. there's quite a few obscure classics, it's just montana. classic- to do once in awhile because of the 'conditions' and approach.
Anyone been up to California Ice recently? Sounds like it was in great shape about a month ago, just wondering if conditions have changed drastically since then.
Thanks!
Hey,
I noticed a pair of 500s at Sierra Trading post in Cody this week for 225 and right now theyve got 20% off of all footwear. When I asked they said that included bindings... Might be worth grabing, I was mighty inticed.
A friend and I linked up Slot Corner and Land of the Lost on V-day. Get it before it snows again, we broke the trail in about 100 meters past the 2nd meadow after Grotto Falls. Hiking to the base involved some post-holing but nothing compared to the uphill swimming that took place between Slot Corner's 2nd pitch, and Land of the Lost's 1st pitch, in a few places it was nipple deep, its much nicer now so get after it. The "real" pitch on slot was some of the worst ice, protect-ably speaking, although one swing one sink the ice tool clear to the head so it wasn't strenuous, but in the sun it was rather slushy. Land of the Lost was superb climbing on both pitches and really enjoyable. Outstanding views from the top; definitely worth the slog. With a little rope management you can rap it all with a single 60m rope.
what a bummer... i don't think there was even one climbable day in that canyon this season.
As of Feb 11, 2010 approach conditions are cake, there is hardly a trace of snow. Woodbine is in great shape and there isn't much open water. Nyes Ice also looks to be in good shape but there are new employees at the Stillwater Mine who seem to be totally unfamiliar with climber interests and it's unclear whether or not you can get legit permission. Oh and if your headed down there beware of the construction between Columbus and Absarokee. They may or may NOT have their speed limit signs out....
was at mission 1/24/10 good ice dry but not as big as it usually is in Jan.Whispering Ice not in. A very big wet slide hit the trail from the N side of canyon looked like a D-12 Cat came down. Look out on o hot wet sno day. Orrin
Again, we arrived at Cleo's just as another party was starting up the first pitch. So, we climbed the line about 50 meters right of Twin Falls. I can't remember the name of it now but it starts in a skinny runnel and continues up several ice curtains of fun climbing in the “WI4 for delicate ice” range. I recommend it, especially from now until the next snow storm because we’ve taken care of digging trenches up the waist-deep snow slopes so you can concentrate on climbing. We finally got on Cleo’s later and it is of course in great shape.
awesome dude! we ended up leading thing in between and TRing mule palace. it didn't look thick enough at all. glad you guys were able to send. maybe we'll try next week. i've been trying to climb graineater for two years now--i'm wondering if it'll ever come in again.
My partner greg and i were on weedeater today. we started up on the side of it, which was really thick. the start (maybe 15 more feet ) did look thin, but totally skippable. all the ice was amazing, really fantastic climbing in a great setting. we did the route in 3 pitches, short pitches.
Climbed Weedeater today. Definitely plenty of good thick ice on the route, didnt see any dripping water. This was my first time climbing it, so I dont know how it compares to "normal" conditions.
Thing in between: in, drippy, not as big as usual, but good.
Mule Palace: curtain is not in, but can definitely be led.
Daggers: probably wont touch down this season. super sketch.
Graineater: first pitch (foxes corner) was not in at all
Weedeater: the start looked super thin, but we saw some people on it? (who?, I dunno.)
overall nice day... mission falls is probably awesome right now by comparison.
ps: who were the the folks on weedeater? how was it?
Justin,
that is my girl Ela's phone!! oh she will be so happy. She has a temporary cell phone right now at 9703161257.
if you have a hard time getting in touch, call me at 600-1667
thanks
Nicole
we should all be taking care of each other out there and this is appalling. i am sorry to hear this happened to you and sorry i don't have any info for you. hopefully this was not an ice climber or a local and just crazy day hiker or tourist. good luck.