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Recent Forum comments
- Pete Tapley : here's some spray/conditions
- CLIMBER FOR CHRIST : Beehive has some ice
- Brumbrown : Beehive
- moonwalker44 : Today
- Snarg : Losing its color
click here for some spray/conditions beta from a couple of weeks ago. I turned around at the trailhead last friday due to very warm temps and a completely saturated snowpack. I'd say keep an eye for the next cool dip in temps and a nice cloudy morning. the standard and land of rape and honey will likely be fat.
I was up in Big Sky today and able to scope out Beehive's south face. There was ice in the major crack systems but it was hard to tell the quality of the ice. Things can change pretty quick up there for better or worse.
I went into the Beehive about 2 weeks ago. We were able to ski in the entire way with pretty stable snow conditions. There was very little ice on the face....mostly unconsolidated snow with snice. But the past two weeks have brought moisture and temp swings! Who knows! If you head up there let us know!
Cheers and happy exploring!
Today
Green is still in, looks like blue too. Not particularly fun, but entertaining in a way. Lots of fracturing, but the ice still seems good enough, I was able to get good pro the whole way. Enough ice has melted off the climb that we were able to pluck off two peices of tat v-threads without any chopping - but its not excessively runnelly or too hollow. Better than frigid rock climbing eh? Cheers. (oh and I picked up a whole mess of brand X beer cans in the parking lot... I guess lets clean up after the partiers...???)
-Olin
Does anyone have some data on the current ice conditions of Silver Cord? We would like to try it the coming week-end.
Thanks.
I don't know if the climb is formed up. Pray tell if you get down there and know where to scope it from. Snow conditions varied drastically and quickly between abysmal breakable crust on 2' sugar and non existant (mud). This made skiing pretty challenging. It was raining when we left this morning, maybe that will help settle things out quicker than I think... or just make more mud.
As of 4/17/10 the section of trail (between intersections) that runs south of Clear Lake is closed, so doing the approach according to the Brunckhorst description would be ill advised, I'm sure with a good map you can devise your own "plan B". We tried to stay along the rim; we didn't make it very far... not very far at all.
Trailhead information and trail markers in YNP are horrible, stupid really, especially in winter. Maybe they do it to keep the yutz's from going out where they don't belong (maybe I'm one) trying to pet the animals and whatnot but please join me in writing to the park service to let them know that some people would like to do more in Yellowstone than use their fancy outhouses and take pictures from their paved trails. link
Cheers, Olin
Doug and I went up to Cali Ice yesterday (Sunday, April 11). We found the approach to have some snow cover which was not bad, minimal postholing, but provided for better traction than pure ice. Once at the main flow we found it in good condition. The top was not mushroomed. Pitch 1 solid w/ sticky/barely-spring ice and good screw placement. Pitch 2 is starting to get some meltage, especially left, and this is where it went bad for me. I led the second pitch and worked too far left tried to avoid some drippage. I got pumped out and had 1 controlled short fall without injury, but on going up to retrieve an ice tool from the first fall I fell again and this one was less than pretty. Fell about 20 feet on the previously ripped out screamer which held beautifully as did the screw (thank you BD and YATES). I torqued my left ankle (ended up with a slight fracture of distal tibia) and we had to descend. I was out of climbing shape as had let several weeks pass without being on the ice and had not maintained as good of condition as I ought. I learned a valuable lessen and just hate that Doug had to lower me quite a bit on the descent of the approach down the gully and SLOWLY accompany me out. Advise: stay center on pitch 2 with these conditions.
Hey Marko. Just to clear things up Whit and I sent the route back to back one morning last winter after lots of work. I was using heel spurs, Whit wasnt. M11 seems like the right grade. If you dont have fruit boots get a pair, but Im sure if youve been on the route much you figured that out. Ill be back in a month lets get out this summer.
cheers
Aaron
Beer on Tap, one free with admission... A lot of good gear in the silent auction!
FA Conrad and Adam
FFA Whit Magro, next day Aaron Thrasher. Still only two sends.....
Gigantor 28 March
Went there on 3/18. the approach ice is still good, no snow until about halfway up the drainage. the ice was still good. the second pitch was starting to get sun rotted but not bad yet .go while there is still time
Tim
What does NW Passage go at? I've heard M10 but no one has been able to confirm that for me. Also wondering who got the FA. thanks!
Marko
Any one been to Cali Ice recently. I'm thinking about going and would like to know what it's like now. I was there last year in early to mid March and it was huge. Just wondering what the ice and snow conditions are like.
Thanks,
Dave
Super fat right now. Echo and I continued on up, simulclimbed for about 140m in the gully (WI 2) and then angling off left did another pitch of brittle 4 and a pitch of fun sticky 3 reminiscent of Green Sleeves. It looks like there is a melt/freeze that is in (and might be growing), it runs in just below where we climbed our upper pitches - guessing it would be a 5? (bring stubbies). nice day out. The trail is definitely walkable now. Highly recommended.
A friend and I went up to crag at Practice and were suprised to find a large fire-pit. It was well used with crushed aluminum beer cans and all (didn't see any glass) built right on the belay platform for Theoretical. I can't imagine that a climber would have done this. Mind boggling.
Hey!!
Sounded like you were having fun on Septre!! I was the one climbing Bingo, and it is in 'climbable' shape. still thin, however, the back side is getting enough ice to hold weight. It was wet, and the transfer onto the curtain is steep. bring a bar of soap for a dirt bag shower while you belay the second up!
Was there today as well, and a lot more stuff was falling off. I think it would still be climb-able tomorrow EARLY. Good luck!!
I completely agree. . .thanks.
If you want to climb all natural then dont clip the pins and you did it all natural
some people might still appreciate them being there
Joe,
the lawn chair WILL be removed from the cave. I know the last day is the 31st, and before then you will no longer see it.
thanks for the note on trash
My friend and I are the ones who hiked the lawn chair up to bingo cave, AND the rope. I spend many hours cleaning out trash in hyalite, and I see no problem having a lawn chair in Bingo. I climbed Northwest Passage, and the chair was nice for the belayer. It was also nice when Sam sent Inglorious Bastards. Cimbing Gear is not trash. I clean up Trash. Every day. My friend cleans up GARBAGE bags of trash in the spring when the snow melts. The chair is nice alternative to a crick in the neck. If you still have a problem with it, I will remove it.
Hi all,
I'm with Alan and think jetsam like lawn chairs and bags should not be left around Hyalite. I mean really, do you really need a lawn chair at the Bingo Cave? The killer access we've been enjoying all winter is not guaranteed. It's all dependent primarily on funding from the USFS and County plus anything the public can raise or is willing to contribute. With budgets being what they are, I would put it a 50-50 chance the funding could dry up at any moment. Thus, we need to treat Hyalite and the surrounding landscape with respect and care. Remember, it was exactly this sort of behavior that almost closed the Scorched Earth crag years ago.
If you are responsible for leaving the lawn chairs, etc at the Unnamed Wall, please remove them soon or at least let us know that you will be done and removing it soon. The road closes on March 31 and i will make a point of going up there before then to clean up any garbage I find. Without knowing your intentions for the chairs, I'll have to assume you plan on abandoning them. PM me if you want to stay anonymous.
As far as flotsam goes, it is pathetic that anyone would leave cans or tea bags, or any other litter, around. Come on folks! I thought the "pack it in -- pack it out" battle was won years ago. It's lame!
Onward,
Joe Josephson
Climbed Scepter and Mummy II yesterday. The high traffic & sun are showing on Mummy II, but still good climbing. Scepter is showing almost no signs of the warm temps & sun and didn't seem to have been getting much traffic. Still huge & blue with lots of fun chandaliers. I'm guessing it's going to be good through the end of the month.
Also, looked like Bingo world was touching down, but getting LOTS of sun. Saw someone climb it and would love to know what kind of shape it's in...
I found some gear at Champagne Sherbet Saturday 3/13/10. Since I live in Helena I left it at Northern Lights on my way out of town. Stop by there and ask if you lost it. JC