Responsible Family Men

WI
4+
Rock rating
5.4
Length
180
Persons
Alex Lowe, John Watson

This climb has a good location, forms early, and is far enough away to avoid crowds on most days.
Approach- Hike up Hyalite canyon 1.5 miles to the small clearing which marks the trail which turns off to Twin Falls; then continue .3 mile further on the trail ( about 150 yd. past the "Arch Falls" sign ) before heading uphill to the left (east). When a view becomes possible, aim for a distinct gash in the cliff above. ( It is the first significant gash in this large wall since Winter Dance; the second gash leads to Avalanche Gully.) Enter this gash and continue up to the base of the climb. 2+ hours from the car.
Climb- The climb lies in a high and spectacular bowl above here. Scramble up to the left side of the climb and belay at the beginning of a ledge which traverses in 50 ft of awkward, but easy climbing. Use double ropes AND a long sling at the bottom of the ice to avoid ropedrag. It is also possible to traverse in from the right.
Descend off of a pin and/or an abalokov anchor.