Responsible Family Men

This climb has a good location, forms early, and is far enough away to avoid crowds on most days.
Approach- Hike up Hyalite canyon 1.5 miles to the small clearing which marks the trail which turns off to Twin Falls; then continue .3 mile further on the trail ( about 150 yd. past the "Arch Falls" sign ) before heading uphill to the left (east). When a view becomes possible, aim for a distinct gash in the cliff above. ( It is the first significant gash in this large wall since Winter Dance; the second gash leads to Avalanche Gully.) Enter this gash and continue up to the base of the climb. 2+ hours from the car.
Climb- The climb lies in a high and spectacular bowl above here. Scramble up to the left side of the climb and belay at the beginning of a ledge which traverses in 50 ft of awkward, but easy climbing. Use double ropes AND a long sling at the bottom of the ice to avoid ropedrag. It is also possible to traverse in from the right.
Descend off of a pin and/or an abalokov anchor.

Length and Difficulty
WI: 
4+
Rock rating: 
5.4
Length: 
180

Comments

1 comment posted
I think the descent for this

I think the descent for this route now has a bolt at the top to supplement the bendy knifeblade. It can. of course, also be supplemented with an abalokove when there is enough ice there!

Posted by jimurl on Sun, 10/26/2008 - 15:50