I think this route has seen more ascents this year than ever. . .woo hoo!!
Have seen at LEAST half dozen guys put it down, with a couple whips included. . .what a great week last week!!
Come and Get It last year: 12 March 09
formed a bit different:
yes it did. fun transfering to the ice on the right. . .and you can still get stems back to the ice on left!!
Question on fixed pins:
To my knowledge, I thought the original line slighted right after the initial ice flow, then back left into the open-book dihedral. Before I led it this year, I rappelled the route and checked all the pins with a hammer to see how they weathered. This is Hyalite rock, right?? The route I ended up leading, however, did not slight right OR left. It is a direct line, and I place one lost arrow in that direct line where the gear was questionable/non-existent. I then came back with a chainsaw and eliminated the fallen log on top to add to the quality of the route itself, and the ease of rappelling when finished.
I heard that someone is planning on pulling the pins so that they can lead it on all natural gear, and I have a problem with that. I'm wondering if me getting bent about someone pulling fixed pins, (and what constitutes a 'fixed pin'), is justifiable, as well as if it was ethical for me to put in a pin on the direct variation. Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
If I were to lead it without clipping pins, I would do just that. Not pull them.??
If you want to climb all natural then dont clip the pins and you did it all natural
some people might still appreciate them being there
I completely agree. . .thanks.
Gallatin National Forest Avalanche Center
Glacier Country Avalanche Center
West Central Montana Avalanche Center
Montana Department of Transportation
Wyoming Department of Transportation
Idaho Transportation Department
Composite Hyalite Snotel Sites (by Junkfunnel)
Lick Creek Weather Station
Shower Falls Weather Station
Cooke City Area- NE Entrance Weather Station
All Montana Snotel Sites- Map of Montana SNOTEL sites