The Matriarch's long awaited second ascent

Submitted by Sam Magro on Fri, 12/31/2010 - 11:17

 The day after Christmas my brother Whit and I got a glorious gift from our beloved Hyalite Canyon: 2nd ascent of the Matriarch.  As many of you know it is one of those lines that has tempted many of us for many moons.    

 

Comparing the photos on the FA we had to climb about 10 more feet of classic Hyalite rock to get to the ice.  We left town at a leisurely 10:30 am arriving at the base with perfect conditions: warm enough to climb the rock bare handed in some sections and the ice was soft enough so that a single swing wouldn't send everything down.  

While we were climbing Matriarch a fellow from Helena, Luke Evans made an impressive lead on a FA of "Isis"...see the other post.  It was one of the more memorable days in Hyalite!  

Gear: there is a fixed anchor at the last horizontal break in the rock section, thanks to some proud efforts by Kyler Pallister 2 weeks prior.  There is also one fixed beak.  Apart from that: standard rack to #3, spectre (or two), screws, and lots of shoulder length slings and double length slings to utilize the various cobbles for protection.  2 60m ropes.