new route right of HFA

Posted: Fri, 02/04/2011 - 15:01

Two small blobs of ice lead to a pea pod corner that spits you out left on face cobbles. Keep going up to ledge and traverse left as you climb up to a washed out gully leading to a tree.

Right of Home Field Advantage is a sorry line that starts with two attractive ice blobs. Bryan Schmitz attempted this line while they where putting up HFA but came back down from the second ice blob. Fun climbing over mixed ground and ok pro move you up through the two ice blobs. After this the route looses all its charm. I climbed up a pea pod corner in hopes of finding another pin or specter and found nothing. Then I was forced left on loose cobble face climbing looking at a ground fall. After a while I realized I wasn't going to get any more pro but had climbed over too much loose terrain, down climbing would have been terrifying. The only option was to keep going up. Close to the top, after being run out 60 feet on a stubby only 30 feet off the ground, I was able to chisel out a softer rock between two cobbles and hammered in a nut that probably would have held. However moderate this climb is I wouldn't recommend it unless you hate yourself. Potato Garden seems an appropriate name at M5 X, 45M.

Heck Yes!

  • Wed, 02/16/2011 - 11:20

 Nice marko! I remember being worried about finding pro after pulling that little blob and always wanted to go back. JoJo should have a pretty funny video of me pulling handfulls and handfulls of dirt and rocks out of those pods looking for gear. The name is perfect.