treadin on thin ice

Submitted by griff on Wed, 11/30/2011 - 20:22

had a great day on saturday, cleo's is different every time u climb it.  a very delicate intro step marks the first pitch.  the 2nd is in beautiful shape.  currently a sustained vertical column, led most proficiently by j apple.  hopes of a mixed ascent of airborne ranger were quickly squelched by an utter lack of ice.  on a brighter note, the new mixed line in the amphitheater, not sure of its name, i believe a knoff route?? anyways, a superb pump, perhaps one grade easier than the roman candle and an excellent training pitch for the super steep routes on the unnamed wall.  go get em'

Here are some updated descriptions for the routes right of Thin Chance. Corrections or updates welcome!

These are from a new Hyalite-specific guidebook I'm working on. It's basically done but until the Ice Fest is over, I've no time to put it toghether. Stay tuned.

Sun Vow *
25 m, M6
FA: Meg Hall Brad Carpenter. October 2001.

For years this mixed endeavor was quite popular but now with so many more mixed lines in the canyon, this contrived route is somewhat forgotten but still fun. Also, now that we are climbing regularly to the end of March, we've discovered that Thin Chance often bulks out to obliterate the line.

Route: Start on the right side of Thin Chance and climb up to an overlap in the rock next to the ice. Climb pumpy and somewhat loose terrain up some prominent cracks past fixed gear (bolts) then trend back left to the ice and end at the top of Thin Chance. In January 2011, someone was pulling a steinpull move levered out a rock that included the first bolt under the little bulge. Such is the nature of Hyalite! Until it gets replaced, reaching the next bolt is a bit more committing and requires using an ice screw.

Sun Burn *
20 m, M7
FA: Adam Knoff. November 25, 2010.

This steep and technical route begins to explore the proud wall right of Thin Chance. Sun Burn uses the ice start as a reason to exist but it is only a matter of time before the rest of the cliff fills in with dry lines.

Route: Start on the right side of Thin Chance climbing the ice for 15 feet. There is a new bolt to the right that is clipable from the ice. However, it often gets encased with ice so is usually unusable most of the season. If the bolt is visible, it is down and left of the second bolt of Sun Vow by three or four feet. Sun Burn shares the second bolt of Sun Vow moving through steep climbing with thin feet. Once clipped into the second bolt, begin moving up and right, following the obvious bolt line to the chains. Lower.