Upper Greensleeves

Submitted by JoJo on Mon, 01/16/2012 - 10:46

Climbed Hangover yesterday and made the hike from the top of that to the top of Greensleeves and climbed all three lines there. This is a great way to approach the routes. From the top of Hangover go up the open slope into the trees and up to a small rock tower. Cut back right around a small outcrop and up into the trees where you can take a hard left back to the routes. They are pretty easy to find as there are slings on the trees along the top.

The Left Hand route is beautiful WI 3, the Middle is maybe the best WI 2 pitch in the canyon, the Right route is the hardest with a thinnish, technical steep bit (WI 3+) but with an easier variation on the flow to the left. They all provide great climbing on bulgy, interesting ice.

None of these are getting climbed much so the ice is not picked out at all so you actually have to know how to read the ice and avoid dinnerplates on the bulges. A rare treat for Hyalite, or most anywhere these days.

To end we rapped off the Right Greensleeves then hiked back to the base of Hangover.