Mummy II bolts replaced

Shortly before January 15 this year, David Nelson and Rick Barrett, after topping out on Mummy II, found the lower bolt of the rap anchor protruding somewhat and were able to pull it out with their fingers. David let Conrad Anker know by email, and Conrad replied, cc-ing a number of others.  The anchor was designed for rappelling directly down the fall line, but had apparently seen extensive use for top-roping, which typically put outward pull on the lower bolt.  This may have contributed to its becoming loose.

A week or so later Dave Hutchinson went up to take a look at it and decided that the safest action was to remove the hangers until a stronger system could be installed.  He recently completed installing a new anchor that has three 5-inch bolts that are slightly larger diameter than the previous ones.  They were tightened with a torque wrench to manufacturer specs (a torque considerably above what we normally think of as adequate, I am told).  I understand that the 3 bolts are connected by chains, all terminated by a heavy ring, in such an arrangement that should be safer for top roping.  Obviously, even this beefier anchor should be carefully checked before top-roping on it.

Dave said that the hole containing the bolt that came out was in not so good rock, and a new hole was drilled for it.  The upper bolt hole was re-drilled for the replacement bolt.

Dave also says he plans to upgrade the anchor this summer with glue-ins, which should be even more reliable for that kind of rock.

Thanks Dave for donating considerable time and expense for this much appreciated public service.

This was an unexpected happening, but fortunately we learned something without serious consequence, thanks to David and Rick discovering the problem at an early stage.  I suspect that we all are going to look at bolts in Hyalite with suspicion from now on, and will probably be checking that they are tight before backing into space.  I know I will.

(Dave has apparently been away for a while and has not gotten back to me on whether I have these details exactly correct.  I decided to go ahead and post it before too much time goes by.)  Best,  Pat Callis