Thanksgiving Eve Hyalite Observations

Between rain squalls, I went for a walk in Hyalite today, Thanksgiving eve. I walked the entire Unnamed Wall from "Elevator Shaft" to "Magically Delicious" and then went up to "G1". Here is what I found and think of what I saw. Use my comments with caution. In this weather… all bets are off.

Unnamed Wall:
"Elevator Shaft" was climbed three days ago but it's definitely not climbable now. As a higher volume flow it will degrade more quickly than most. "The Fat One" gets a lot of sun and is feeling the pain courtesy of global warming. It's out.

Loren Rousch's route from last year "Mousetrap" (D4) about 30 feet left of "Itchy and Scratchy" looks great and is doable anytime. While you are at the Unnamed Wall, you could walk over and do the trad alternative "Magically Delish" which is complete dry. It is more fun with a bit of ice but currently it would still be better than slogging with 60 of your best friends up a slushy left side G1, IMHO.

Of course, those of you with dreams of double digit M routes, the "Bingo Cave" and "Roman Candle" are climbable anytime.

Across the Valley:
"Over Easy" looked to be the best thing to have a look at. "Curtains" might be climbable but I'm sure it's exciting. "Land of the Lost" also looks like it might be worthwhile. "Slot Corner" will certainly not be there (faces more south) but you can slog around it to the left or reach it from "Curtains."

Strangely enough there was some ice on "The Dribbles" but clearly not climbable. "Silken Slot" will be a mess as a high volume flow. "Silken Falls" might be climbable but the bottom curtain will certainly be crux.

"The Scepter" and "Mummy II" were getting climbed last weekend and they definitely still look doable but I'm not sure it's worth the walk. For some strange reason I did not look up at Upper Mummy. Maybe because there is no ice so it didn't catch my attention.

"Feeding the Cat" looks as good as anything in that area. I'm sure the top is it's usual "mossome" finish. "Matrix" was done last week as a thin mixed route which is about how it looked today. "Crypt Orchid" has been getting regular activity but, as a higher volume flow, it's looking gray and thinning.

The Ampitheater climbs are thin but hanging tough. Of course, "Sun Vow" and "Desert Dance" are always good.

Genesis Area
The left side of G1 is in but parts of it are delaminating and others are covered in ugly, bubbly chandeliers that is common on ice with lots of water but marginal temperatures. The middle pillar is hanging there trying, and the right side is not even close. Unless you really, really, really, really, REALLY, feel the need to swing the tools and or just HAVE to do a route that you've done a million times before I would suggest we all leave G1 alone for now. Any ice you knock off now will not regenerate until it is much colder.

Fortunately there are the nearby mixed climbs. There are the steeper M6ish routes just right of G1 but there is also the much easier "My Jewish Girlfriend" (M4) to the left. Pete Tapley did a similar route somewhere just to the right of Jewish Girlfriend but I don't know anything about it. His nearby "Deadfall Gully" has been getting some action and reportedly cleaned up some. There is also the fun new Scottish Cliff well to the right of G. Search Montana Ice here for more info on these routes.

"Hangover" appears to be the route to do as it is surviving as well as any. "Genesis II" is still there and likely climbable but it's hard to say how good it is. "Chicken Dance" aka Golden Mean is trying. The warm weather is likely helping this route with more flow. Perhaps the best route to do is the first pitch of "Zach Attack." I think this is the best pitch in the canyon and requires little to no ice. Definitely worth the walk.

Hidden Hyalite
If forced to recommend one Hyalite route, my money is on "Palace Butte Falls." Get it now while the approach from the top of "Twin Falls" is still 45 minutes or so and not the endless wallow it is most of the year. Come on folks! We all look at this route every time we drive up Hyalite. This is the time to finally tick the fucker. Years ago Alex Lussier did a number of routes off to the right in the bowl above Twin Falls. They might be in. Go do Palace Butte and have a look around.

Speaking of routes up the canyon, Whit and Adam's "Maiden Voyage" 5.9 on Maid in the Mist should be in prime shape and a must do before it snows too much! This is the longest route in Hyalite and deserves a second ascent!

East Fork
My suspicions were proven when I talked to some WY climbers that did Champagne in the past few days. According to them, "Champagne Sherbert" and "Slot" are both good. They claim "High Crimes" is the best ice of anything in the canyon. They also did a mossy corner to the right of High Crimes. Considering the shape of these routes, the WI 2 routes on the cliff above High Crimes might be worth a look. They are fun for their grade but hard to see from anywhere. My guess too is that the Flanders Cirque might be worth that rare walk to see what's happening. Despite the weather, these WY guys have been climbing every day for over a week on different climbs every day and having a blast! What's your excuse! =)

Farther Afield:
If I was going to take the long weekend to go climbing somewhere, I would go to Silver Gate and spend a few days poking around on the northwest side of Abiathar. "Marlboro Madness" is an awesome route and I bet in fine shape. Like all the routes on that side of the road, they are hard to see but worth the effort. Every gully there has ice. Go have an adventure! Check the Avy report but this is worth a look if it doesn't snow too much with the coming system.

"Ice Dragons" and the north face of the Sphinx have been getting a lot of action this fall and will likely still be good for those of you into 4+ hour approaches!

Have a great and safe Holiday weekend everyone! Think cold.

We are charging ahead with the "Bozeman (not so much) Ice Climbing Festival," December 5-9. Regardless of the weather, the evening shows at the Emerson and Ice Breaker Tower at the Emerson Lawn are going to be killer. If you want to give a little back to Hyalite (BIF is a fundraiser for the road plowing), we need volunteers! Check out this site if interested:

http://www.bozemanicefest.com/volunteers/

Thanks in advance.

JoJo