We bolted a new mixed route yesterday just to the right of fat chance in the amphitheater. The route begins in the easy mixed corner twenty feet right of the main ice flow. A medium size stopper or . 4 camelot will protect the corner up to the stance below the bolts. A fixed stopped is the first piece protecting you to the first bolt. Solid hooks take you past the first two bolts and into a fair runout to the third bolt. The climbing is secure and straightforward. Move past the forth bolt onto a good smear of ice protectable with good screws and finish to the tree with fixed slings and a biner. This is a great moderate climb, maybe m4+.
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Thanks Adam. I look forward
Thanks Adam. I look forward to checking it out. As it is near "Mousetrap" perhaps "Flypaper" might be a fitting name....
Conrad Mystery Route and Flypaper
I thought "Mousetrap" was on the Unnamed Wall.Something like M4, bolted, next to "The Itchy and Scratchy Show".
What's the route just past the Bingo cave on the right, past "North West Passage"? Awesome route. Just wondering about the name / grade.
New Route sorting out
Indeed, Loren's route "Mousetrap" is on The Unnamed Wall about 30 feet left of the ephemeral smear "Itchy and Scratchy Show." The route described here does fit with the feature and anticipated grade of a line some 20 feet right of "The Fat One" on Unnamed Wall. This line does frequently get covered with ice and has been climbed many times over the years as an all ice route.
The route as described being right of "Fat Chance" would put it on the wall between that route and "Thin Chance." This is a pretty steep wall and also very short, so it's unlikely it would be considered a M4+ nor need very many bolts and gear. There is Meg Hall's route "Desert Dance," the world's first "D" rated route, that starts in the obvious crack some distance right of "Thin Chance" near the edge of the ledge and finishes up bolts to a chain anchor.
Looking forward to clarifying and sorting it all out. And yes Conrad, the masses are ready for a name for your route just right of the Bingo Cave. =)
Onward,
JoJo
The completed route to the
The completed route to the right of North West Passage is "Panama Canal".
There is a route in progress (belay is in and cleaning is inching along) between the North West and Panama. Loren replaced the two year old fixed rope with a fresh Blue Water static to the top of the cliff. Folks are welcome to TR the proj. I'll bolt it over the holidays. Thanks for respecting.