lots of options on Cleo's

Submitted by Ted on Sun, 01/20/2013 - 14:36

Climbed Cleo's yesterday, and while it's not particularly big right now the crux pitch offers several good options: up the right side of the pillar for straight-forward class V climbing - it looks quite chadeliered but took good screws the whole way; or far left side for one-foot-on-the-rock and one-on-the-ice. Both of these options were mostly dry, but separated by a section of chandeliered ice that was pooring water. A third option is to start on the inside of the pillar and step around left onto the front at about three-quarters height - this allows stemming most of the way up and wasn't very pumpy. We did options 1 and 3 and both were fun (didn't try the mixed line on the left). Also, worth noting that right now it is only getting sun for a very short amount of time in the morning so there's no sun-affected ice.