Home field advantage & Through Four More

Submitted by A Dum on Wed, 01/23/2013 - 07:49

 Had a great day yesterday with Martin which included ascents of both Through Four More and Home field Advantage.  The latter is climbing great right now but takes some thought and natural gear. Of course the bottom is protected by bolts which are most easily clipped by staying in the seam to the left.  After reaching the last bolt solid hooks lend to a secure stance which make placing a solid number one Camelot and yellow C3 in the crack above comfortable. These pieces give good piece of mind to move right onto the ice.   The climbing to the top is bomber.  Through four more is a different story.  As the commentary of the last few weeks suggests, the bottom is a test of one's nerve and intelligence.  I have more of one than the other. I did place a stubby in a rotting ice bubble half way up the slab which may have held a falling skunk but likely not me. Crumbly but but half descent hooks trended the climbing right to two sketchy ice hooks. Once established a few feet up onto the ice the climbing became much better.  The upper ice is superb.  The thrill of this often mellow climb for both my belayer and me would have not existed if there were bolts to clip.   This climb should stay as is.  As for the forum.  Lets please refrain from the disparaging remarks.  Ted is doing the right thing by asking advice and raising valid points before acting.  He is setting the right example.