hows the ice??

Submitted by Matt on Wed, 03/09/2005 - 08:53
with the warmer days hows the ice holding up?

Don't know if this helps, but last Saturday was pretty good. Climbed Mummy 2, only thinning near the top (as far as I can tell), and saw the Amphitheater climbs, they looked good as well. I'm betting on things holding up for a few more weeks (cuz my bro is coming up to climb with me). Anyone with a few more Hyalite years than me wish to comment?

One last blast for the season - As of last Sunday, the ice has been amazingly good in all areas of Hyalite. The biggest problem is the increased traffic on the road since both roads are still driveable. There have been a decent number of new routes, as recently as Sunday, and I will post what I know once I get more time to collate the info. I was in Hyalite Thursday, Saturday and Sunday last week and here is what I saw, heard, or think is still good, or not. Mornings actually saw dry brittle ice turning to true ego ice by lunch. Bear in mind, this time of year it can change fast but I suspect things will hold their own for a little bit yet. Good luck, JoJo MAIN FORK - Upper Greensleeves looks as good as it ever gets. Hang Over is fat and juicy. Through Four More is looking possible. Can't see behind the tree. G1 Wall is not so good. I wish whomever continues to feel the need to destroy the "diversions" would either speak up and let your peers decide, or otherwise clean up the mess left behind. The Ampitheater Climbs are all good if not a little picked out. The climbs right of Mummy II are also good but seeing little traffic. The Sceptre is so big it's a virtual slab right now. Mummy IV is climbable via the rock on the right (5.8) - take knifeblades and micro-camalots or equivalent. It would be hard but the ice is perfect and Mummy III is probably all rock, which is not unusual. All the formed routes along the Unnamed Wall were very sun-baked but later in the day there was a lot of blue showing through. It looks like the an inch or two of surface crystals with sweet ice underneath. Magically Delicious and Elevator Shaft are perfect - since they get no sun. Black Magic - looked climbable with a bit more rock the usual but some good looking ice hanging in there. Come and Get It - has more ice now than when it was climbed in November, 2004. Cleo's - big and should be good although it will vary day to day depending on temps and sun. The Shimmey - looks in. Twin Falls - great, as usual. Solstice - rock at the bottom but it is andesite and decent. Might still be good to go. This might go away sooner than the rest. Equinox - in. I have no knowledge of the climbs in the upper canyon although the bottom pitches of Avalanche were climbed on Sunday and several parties have recently been on Responsible Family Men. I imagine Over Easy, Silken Falls, and The Climb Above Dribbles are still okay. I imagine Dribbles is not. EAST FORK - Alpha and Omega are in but I couldn't tell what they are like. Seeds and Stems looks as good as it ever has. Except for a possible trudge through the snow to get there, it would be a steal right now. Didn't see the Champagne area climbs in Flanders but based on other routes in the area, they may be the best routes in all of Hyalite right now. The Big Sleep is not looking good. The crux icicle is diminished and the constant up-drafts are keeping it from re-forming even though the top is getting bigger by the day. Bobo-Like - it was climbed on Monday. Killler Pillar - massive. Comet and Asteroid - look great. If the snow in the gully is set up, consider it to be in the best possible conditions. Slight of Hand - didn't see it totally. It's there but you can't tell conditions until at the base. Might still be good. High Fidelity - The ice is fat. Enjoyability is dependent on snow conditions between pitches. Horsetail Falls - it was climbed on Sunday. The bottom pitch is thin with some holes and the top is big and fat. ELSEWHERE Green and Blue Gullies are great. Silver Gate Right, Center, Left are good and wintery. I bet Hydromonster is GREAT! California Ice is huge and with thousands of feet of ice since the gully isn't snowed in. Mean Green, High on Boulder and Pillar of Pain are worth a quiuck Cody trip if you haven't done them. The Park opens the road from Mammoth to Canyon to bikes in mid-March. Silver Cord would be awesome!

as of last saturday, dribbles was good and climbable in the morning. a fun hole in the ice mid-way up the third (crux) pitch. rapped around 3pm. getting pretty soft by then. sending bombs by 4. -J

[quote="JoJo"] Didn't see the Champagne area climbs in Flanders but based on other routes in the area, they may be the best routes in all of Hyalite right now. [/quote] Yupper. Champagne Sherbet and Slot are in brilliant shape along with the right-hand mixed variation on Sherbet being as good as I've seen it with a decent runnel reaching all the way down to the right side of the arch...other lines are ripe for the picking in the area for those with sharp eyes and a little imagination.

looks like the forum's running out of steam, so maybe a revival, eh? i plan on being in the area thursday to monday; if anyone has recent condition advice, it would be nice to see it. i have the faith anyway, though - we should be getting in some great climbing! :P