Posted: Tue, 10/22/2013 - 14:27

I tried posting this previously with a bit more info but it never loaded, and so here goes round two:

Two new routes from last year:

"Straits of Gibraltar" (M9, 30m) March 2013
located lookers right of NW passage. Bolted by Conrad Anker, Sam Magro, Bud Martin, and Kevin Brumbauch.
FFA: Sam Magro

"Broken Stair" (M5, 35 m) March 2013
located just right of The Elevator Shaft. Climbs rock to right on gear plum line under several bolts, then traverses right to finish on E.S.
F.A. Sam Magro, Bud Martin, and Michele Hardy FFA: Sam Magro and Bud Martin

"A Little Bit of Joy" (M4/5 160m)
Whit Magro, Sam Magro, and Jason Thompson (Oct1 13,2013)

located in the major weakness/chimney/couloir system to the right of Zack Attack. This is a great early season route with a few short steep steps with gully slogging in between. Late season it would be covered with far more snow. Another early season route to get on when the ice just isn't quite yet it.
Gear: single set to #4, nuts, a few pins, maybe a spectre
Descent: It may be best to simply rappel the route (you will need to leave a few nuts or some pins). We only had 3 cams and 2 pins so we opted to take the billy goat descent: (single 70m will do) Head south at the top of the third pitch (turf runnel) to trees atop south facing cliff band. Locate cord on trees and rappel. Once down walk north toward the spur ridge that was to the climbers right as you climbed up. Short down climb to small exposed ledge to cord on a tree. Rap down to gully. Downclimb/walk to the top of the first steep section of the first pitch and rappel to the start of the route.

Route right of Zack Attack

  • Tue, 11/12/2013 - 09:49

Ty Nygaard, Peter Ramos and I climbed the above mentioned route "A Little Bit of Joy" (M4/5 160m) in November 2010, it was a nice day and we rapped Zack Attack. We referred to the route as "Pat My Back". Its a decent alternative if you get up to Zack Attack and things aren't looking ideal.