Big Sleep

Posted: Thu, 11/07/2013 - 14:51

Thanks to whoever took the time to go recon Flanders and all it's gems. Whit got word the Big Sleep was in and we picked that plumb yesterday. Holy frejoles.... was it good! We linked the first ice pitch and rock traverse into one pitch to the tree which isn't bad and saves time. A 60M will do it. The crux pitch is all the way down and protectable entirely with screws. It is steep as ballz with few rests but there are now descent draft holes to follow. I know we have a long season ahead of us but that may get the prize for the best ice pitch of the year. It's that good! The last pitch is there but tricky. Easy ice leads to a weird section of mixed climbing protected by a spectre and fixed pin. I had the joy of losing a tool placement and falling against the pillar which was touching but a simple lean against knocked it off and it all fell straight onto my head. Needless to say it is safer now. We left a v thread at the end of the ice so raps are straight forward. If you're looking to get pumped and vitalized on an early season gem don't miss this!

Here are some pictures from

  • jt
  • 10/24/08
  • Thu, 11/07/2013 - 16:51

Rad work men! Was the ice

  • Sat, 11/09/2013 - 04:30

Rad work men!

Was the ice still forming? It hasn't come in during the time I've been climbing in Hyalite, will it stay in for awhile or just sublimate away?

What time of year are the conditions right for narcolepsy to come in?

How's bobo like? anything forming yet? Does Killer pillar have anything hanging down?

response to James Bond....

  • Mon, 11/11/2013 - 11:28

The Big Sleep is likely going to grow a bit more but may not get huge like it has in the past. The warm temps will take its toll but it should maintain until it gets cold again. Killer pillar is almost touching but not quite. Looks great and hard! Again, warm temps may hinder things a bit but it is coming in really well. I don't know about Narcolepsy. You should go investigate.

I'm in France, otherwise I

  • Tue, 11/12/2013 - 09:57

I'm in France, otherwise I would've scoped it 2 weeks ago!