The Sphinx

Submitted by rockgumby on Mon, 10/10/2005 - 12:54
Made the trip out to the the sphinx this weekend, October 9th. The trail was really muddy, and there was bout 6 or so new inches of snow. The traverse out to the climb was not all that bad but the snow could have been better. Thew first pitch of the Lowe route is still forming, really wet and fragile. the variation to the right has no ice on the bottom 120 of it. The 2nd pitch looked pretty good. I bailed off the first pitch so if anyone gets back up there before me I would appreciate my draw and biners and pitons back. You know good karma and all. Looks like it needs to warm up over there so we can get that snow melting then it would come in. Bryan (Member #3 of The Crew)

[img]http://www.dotphoto.com/SAN1/8A/BD/C1/i8ABDC119-2613-45DA-A169-E81BC337…] As of Sunday (10/9/05) this is what the first pitch looks like. Its not as good as it looks; however, there was plenty of water dripping during the middle of the day. Apparently there wasn't much ice at the start of the second pitch, above that it looks ok where the flow of water is constricted. The traverse is cake, and you should be able to easily follow our tracks if it doesn't snow. I can't get back up there for a little while - good luck, have fun! Mark Staples

The Earl-Trimble route is also coming in nicely. The smear covers at least the first two pitches, and you can see ice on the upper sections but you can't see the entire route, so it is hard to tell. It seems things should be getting better up there due to today's warm temps and those forecasted.

just curious if anyone else has attempted anything on the sphinx this year since the last report. i'd be happy to scope it not knowing, but cruel fate has trapped me in portland,or for the next 2 years. postulations on conditions?

from the top of beehive nearly two weeks ago the top of the sphinx was ominously dry. the continued warm weather can't have helped with so little snow to start. but we've had a few good freezes this week, so maybe what little moisture is there is still working its magic (ever the optimist...).

I talked to some folks today that climbed the Lowe Routein the last few days. They hiked in so go get it while the track is still there! It didn't sound like any of the other routes were in.