An Overview of what's out there this weekend

Submitted by jimurl on Thu, 12/02/2004 - 21:28
Hi All! I have gotten a few verbal reports about the ice conditions this evening, so I figured I would prime everyone. Keep in mind that the Northern Lights Ice festival will be going on, so the popular, easier climbs will be well-occupied. For example, G1, G2 and Twin Falls ( NLTC - where will you be? ) Hangover and Greensleeves - Pretty good, perhaps not 22cm screw material, but plenty good to climb. Other scrappy stuff in the Genesis area may be in. G2 is good. Mummy 2- good Mummy 4 - Hard, but climbable ascent this year. Take rock gear. No water is flowing ( according to Ross Lynn) so what you see is probably all we'll get. Sceptre - formed, but not good. A roof near the bottom makes it difficult this time of year. I have seen very suspicious ice on this climb even in the middle of the season. [b]caveat climbor[/b]. Dribbles- No word, but I bet its in. Twin falls and Cleos - Twin is good. I haven't heard about cleos but check out this photo: [img]http://montanaice.com/images/twin-falls04.jpg[/img] Damn! See cleos on the right! Looking good, huh? Has anybody gotten on it yet? notice too the middle line- perhaps the Shimmy? - is in or almost so. Unnamed Wall area- this place is in good shape. Even Come and Get It ( no reported ascent yet this year) & Black Magic ( Reportedly already climbed this year by Conrad- but that may not mean its "in" )are GTG ( Good To Go) In Flanders - see the photos under the "Bobo Like?" topic. Champagne Sherbert is in. Big Sleep is there, and has been visited but is in extremely difficult conditions. OK, thats the round up! Have fun. Be Careful, Climb Hard! Jim Earl

Just so that folks know, the N. Lights demo will be held at G1, possibly spilling over to G2 - we [i]won't[/i] be on Twin. According to our sign-up list, we'll have 30 people per day. Typically other folks will pop in as well...we won't turn anyone away and there are plenty of lines to keep everyone busy. I'll also throw the word out on our slideshow, 7pm tonight at N. Lights. Mark and I are each going to run through a carousel of ice climbing shots from all over the place - and it's free! So bring a friend and bring some beer, it'll be fun. -cheers

Okay, Okay, here's another update. Hopefully will spread the masses out this weekend: Over Easy (aka Alpine Like) is in big. Curtains - looks good. Slot Corner - didn't see it but it was good earlier in the season. Gets lots of sun. Land of the Lost - didn't see it but you can see the final pitch from the trail (first clearing below Winter Dance). Dialectric Breakdown - It was HUGE earlier but is now completely gone after the heat wave. Probably won't return. And for all of you talking about Winter Dance. It is NOT ready to go yet. It still needs to come down another 30 feet or so to reach the bolt ladder. Both Champagne climbs are good and is High Crimes. I haven't heard of anyone doing it yet, but I would bet Slight of Hand is in. Go do it. It's a good one. Carry upwards to Cave Falls for a fine day. Alpha and Omega (as looking at them from the Dam) look fat. Onward, JoJo
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