Smears for fears (we think)
Today we climbed what seems to be labeled as Smears for Fears on p.71 of Winter Dance. However, it is not the climb that is pictured on p. 72-73 (labeled also as Smears for Frears, but I think it?s the right side of Smear Today, Gone Tomorrow). Anyhow, we climbed the farthest line on the right on the first picture, with the pillar at the top.
The climb was thin at the start, for sure. I used several shorties but did not feel very psyched about them. After about 15 meters the angle eases off but the ice doesn?t get much better. The base of the pillar is at about 35 meters and I slung it for protection.
Note that the climb is definitely not as described in Winter dance; it is currently all ice (albeit thin for the first 35 m). For those keeping track of ascents, to be fair, I pumped out on the top pillar and clipped into a tool for rest. It came down to a choice between poor style (hanging) and really bad style (falling). I chose the former. Tomas followed beautifully and clean.
There is no anchor at the top and we chose to walk off because the sun had started working the ice pretty well. It?s a little over 50 meters to the end of the ice and over 60 to the first tree (maybe you can make it with rope stretch?)
If you head up there, milk your rest before the pillar. It?s worth it because the climbing is very good from there. As I said, it?s all ice so it?s not that difficult but in its current condition it?s quite committing. I think it?s still WI6.
Have fun up there.
Alex and Tomas
From bottom to top...