Funeral for a Friend

Submitted by alaskazach on Sun, 10/19/2008 - 16:26

[img]http://montanaice.com/forums/user_images/me%20mt%20ice.JPG[/img] [img]http://montanaice.com/forums/user_images/mt%20ice.JPG[/img] We hiked up to Funeral for a Friend on sat 18 Oct 08, the snow conditions made the boulder field rather miserable, as the pictures show the ice was good, the lower boulders were fun we were able to climb on ice and rock from the big boulders at the bottom of the gully to the base of the main climbing. I bailed about 20ft up the main column, the ice seemd to be good but the snow had piled on top during the storm last week and another layer of ice had formed over the snow making it difficult to find pro and climb: Mostly i am out of shape due to excessive beer throughout the summer. We did however manage to plow a trail through the deep snow to the base of the main flow for the lucky souls that decide to go up. We didnt really know where the "bullet" was but its fairly obvious you just cant really see the climb until you to its left. There were also some other ice formations around glacier lake that looked interisting. Hidden Falls looked semi formed in the hazy morning light.

Thanks for the update alskazack! It looks like the Beartooths are the place to go!

It's been warm areound Bozeman, it would seem there is not a lot of ice here yet.

Jimurl

A group of us went up yesterday, Saturday November 1st, and found "Funeral" to be in top condition.  The "second" pitch was a little wet but super sticky, longer than it looks in Zack's photo, about ~150' and super fun.  Road is all clear.  Snowline seemed to be about 700 feet above the trailhead, and even then it was quite minimal.  Get it before the next dump!

-Joel

 

Four of us snowshoed in on saturday, there was a good bit of snow and we were able to snowshoe over most of all the bulder field this year.  we climbed the lower half of the route, the upper pitch didnt have much ice on it but it was still a great climb.  tim lead this year so we made it up.  it made for great day out. get up there before it snows much more.

A group of 4 of us went up to climb funeral for a friend on Monday. Very windy day made for some very unique and exciting conditions resulting in one of the most impressive leads I've seen. Ice was super sticky and in second pitch looked to be in prime condition...however due to the weather and several hours of sufferfest we bailed atop pitch 1. couldn't be a better setting or place for a climb...we boot packed in and it wasn't too bad.

A group of 4 of us went up to climb funeral for a friend on Monday. Very windy day made for some very unique and exciting conditions resulting in one of the most impressive leads I've seen. Ice was super sticky and in second pitch looked to be in prime condition...however due to the weather and several hours of sufferfest we bailed atop pitch 1. couldn't be a better setting or place for a climb...we boot packed in and it wasn't too bad.

A group of 4 of us went up to climb funeral for a friend on Monday. Very windy day made for some very unique and exciting conditions resulting in one of the most impressive leads I've seen. Ice was super sticky and in second pitch looked to be in prime condition...however due to the weather and several hours of sufferfest we bailed atop pitch 1. couldn't be a better setting or place for a climb...we boot packed in and it wasn't too bad.

A group of 4 of us went up to climb funeral for a friend on Monday. Very windy day made for some very unique and exciting conditions resulting in one of the most impressive leads I've seen. Ice was super sticky and in second pitch looked to be in prime condition...however due to the weather and several hours of sufferfest we bailed atop pitch 1. couldn't be a better setting or place for a climb...we boot packed in and it wasn't too bad.

A group of 4 of us went up to climb funeral for a friend on Monday. Very windy day made for some very unique and exciting conditions resulting in one of the most impressive leads I've seen. Ice was super sticky and in second pitch looked to be in prime condition...however due to the weather and several hours of sufferfest we bailed atop pitch 1. couldn't be a better setting or place for a climb...we boot packed in and it wasn't too bad.

A group of 4 of us went up to climb funeral for a friend on Monday. Very windy day made for some very unique and exciting conditions resulting in one of the most impressive leads I've seen. Ice was super sticky and in second pitch looked to be in prime condition...however due to the weather and several hours of sufferfest we bailed atop pitch 1. couldn't be a better setting or place for a climb...we boot packed in and it wasn't too bad.

A group of 4 of us went up to climb funeral for a friend on Monday. Very windy day made for some very unique and exciting conditions resulting in one of the most impressive leads I've seen. Ice was super sticky and in second pitch looked to be in prime condition...however due to the weather and several hours of sufferfest we bailed atop pitch 1. couldn't be a better setting or place for a climb...we boot packed in and it wasn't too bad.

Hey guys,

Thinking of coming up from Colorado, F for a F looks like fun. Book says 8 mile road approach. Is this road open?

Possibly have a partner but not sure. I have rack rope and will lead. Is it possible to find partners if  mine bails? Anything else in or any suggestions on where to explore?

Any Beta would be greatly appreciated

You didnt say when your coming but id love to join if your partner bails.  I have from 11/7 - 11/12 off to go have fun as well as about 3-4 day off any givin week.

The "8 mile approach" depends on conditions, as you can imagine.  The road is not closed, just often impassable.  How far u can drive depends on the snow.  I'd say from current snow (not bad), you will be able to cut several miles off the approach.  Have snowshoes or XC/alpine skis and shouldn't be epic, but will still require some work.  Most of us avoid it once snow has settled in.  I have some availability this week as well (Thurs/Fri), call: 406-672-4390.

Rock Creek Falls and Hidden Falls much easier access if road to F for F impassable.  Silver Falls also nice but short (25M). I'd suggest Rock Creek Falls as several variations on the route to keep you entertained, but might not be high quality ice yet. They are all in the Winter Dance guidebook.

Thanks for all the beta guys. Ended up in Cody. Moratorium and Carter Mtn were in good shape so didnt go north from there. I'm sure I'll end up there at some point this year I'll be in touch if I am. If any of you are coming to West CO (ouray,t-ride,silverton) let me know, I can give beta or am always looking to get out. THANKS AGAIN!!!!