Hello All,
Well there isnt any good ice yet but; it's time to get western. On Sunday Adam Knoff and I climbed a new route on the east buttress of the Madien of the Mist. It's pure alpine climbing composed of snow, rock, and turf. It may be the longest route in the canyon with 800 feet of sustained climbing. Expect lots of run out on the Hyalite "good/bad" rock. There was one distinct crux on the first pitch but fairly moderate overall. In my opinion it's a classic line that everyone shold do, it was so fun! Look in the Winter Dance book on page 146 you'll notice the prominite skyline on the right side of the Madien. Our line snakes up the face just left of that skyline following the path of least resistance. I tried to download a photo on this but I don't think it worked. We rappeled the line in five rappels stright down, the first rap goes off the big lone tree at the top of the face. If your on route you'll hit most of the rap stations on your way up, a bunch of fixed pins and stoppers. To get there walk up the trail untill you see the sign for Silken Skein Falls, walk another 20 paces or so then hang a right. There is a big fallen tree to help with the creek crossing then head stright up. There is a bit of 4th class to arrive at the base of the wall.
Have Fun,
Whit Magro
Rack: 2 - 60 meter ropes, 1 set of cams up to a #2 Camalot, stoppers, 2 specters, 4 blades of verious sizes, angles, and what ever else you like to nail in. It will on work on this one except bolts, no bolts!
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