Perhaps not new...

Posted: Sun, 11/30/2008 - 15:38

... but not in the book.  For what it's worth, this shot is from way back in the big slot on the right side of the wall with Cleo's, Matriarch, etc.  Jerry Johnson and I climbed it the week before Thanksgiving as a mixed route. Thin but easy ice to begin, thickening as it goes.  The photo is looking down from just below a cool keyhole at the top of the ice, but don't go through unless you've got the rope drag worked out. Right then up and left, dry tooling on moderate, solid (for Hyalite) rock on the right wall of the gully.  Belay at a fixed nut and rock thread about 30 feet up the snow gully, on the left.  Stubbies, medium nuts, #2 camalot.

There's potentially a very cool second pitch on a smear going up the L wall of the upper gully, but it was getting dark and we were frozen (The bottom was very wet).

 

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