the matrix, cave & gully

Submitted by scott c on Thu, 01/01/2009 - 18:14

The Matrix was huge on Wednesday.  The bottom is a solid 15 foot pillar of great ice, not mixed at all, then a fat WI3 flow steadily steepening to a slightly overhanging but short pillar at the top.


I think that the original "Cave and Gully" route is probably not the one that Winterdance describes (though that's also a fun route).  If you go up the pillar that currently starts The Matrix, just  right of the huge cave, you could stay right instead of going up The Matrix, and that would take you up a narrow gully.

I think Scott is right about the original Cave and Gully route. Peter and Amy, the first ascentionists, couldn't remember much about the climb when I was looking for information. Their original description said 5.5 rock. A mixed start to the Matrix is certainly harder than 5.5 (IMHO), so in the end I wasn't sure at the time. The thing I do call Cave and Gully is the stepped, moderate flow that is immediately left of Feeding the Cat but significantly longer since it pours over the longest part of the cliff. It is definitely worth doing when in the neighborhood.