Access to Plains/Thompson falls climbs

Submitted by ashlehman on Sat, 01/17/2009 - 17:55

Does anyone know about the access issues with the climbs in Plains/Thompson falls?  It seems Rainbow maybe tricky to get to unless we have landowner permission.  And road side climbs look to be closed for sheep habitat.  If anyone has climbed here recently and has an update on access please let me know. Thanks.

Just moved into Plains last summer so I am slowly figuring out the local ice routes/ access issues, but here is what I have found out so far this season.

There are indeed big access issues involving all climbs at the end of the west river road between Plains and Thompson Falls.  Until futher notice it would be unfortunate to piss off people any more by access on this private road/property.          That said:  Rainbow falls is clearly on Forrest Service Land.  A partner and I took a boat across the river last week and found a nice way around the islands and to the other bank.  Rainbow falls is in great shape and seems to be surviving the heat wave.

All climbs upriver from Rainbow Falls are in doubt as to land ownership and we are currently trying to pinpoint actual location and ownership of climbs such as the Popsicle, right and left Spike.  I feel that any climbing on these features at the moment could jepardise any future climbing on them (not to mention your own health due to ornery land owners).

There are some climbs down river from Rainbow falls.  These also have some questions as to land ownership.  Personally I feel you could probably get away with climbing on Alexanders Dark Band and others as long as you take the crossing the river in a boat and landing near Rainbow falls option.
So good luck with that, be careful in the river, it's big and changes daily.

There are also climbs near Paradise, which I don't see mentioned anywhere.  There are some access issues here as well, although some are pretty easy and the simple rule here would be --IF YOU ARE CLIMBING IN WHAT IS OBVIOUSLY SOMEBODYS BACKYARD, THEN MAKE SURE YOU TALK TO THEM FIRST.   There is one climb in particular that looks fun, but turns out to be the source of water for a landowner who would be mighty pissed if someone punctured their pipes.

On the saint regis cut off.  Roadside attraction is in fairly well as of sunday the 22nd.  Cascade Falls also nearby gets little attention, but is a fun multi-pitch WI 2 that is perfect for teaching.

Also there are some climbs on 200 south of the st regis cutoff.  Besides the obvious little things on the side of the road, all access needs to be worked out so be prudent please.

Hope this helps, it really is a great little valley to climb ice in, this year at least.

hey there!

how do you know the names of all these climbs!?  i would love to be shown some of these.  would you be interested in taking me around or giving me directions one day soon?  send me a PM or call me at 406-214-6616.


thanks,

-brett.

Was on Cascade falls today, what was left of it anyway.  Had some big sections peel off around me.

Rainbowfalls might be worth something this weekend, but its changing pretty fast as well.

Most everything else has become hard mixed and hollowbacked.

In regards to Bretts comment about how I have information about this area:  I have an older copy of Big Sky Ice, there is a new copy which probably has some new info, but the one I have was very helpful in getting up and running. That and getting a few maps and drving around and looking, many of the climbs in this area are visible from a major road.

hey there,


yeah, i guess i didn't realize all of this was in the book.  i'll be putting in my order shortly.  they're available here:

http://climbmontana.com/publications.html


i think ice season for missoula might be on its way out... i was at mission falls two weeks ago and found most of the bigger flows to be pretty poor.

Thanks for all the info!  I found the description in big sky ice a bit tricky, unless I was too early.  As for accessing Rainbow via boat, do you know of a public access point?