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& Road Conditions |
About the Ice |
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This is a prominent and popular area in Hyalite. While the approach is not quite as quick as the Genesis climbs, it does offer a broad spectrum of climbing from easy ice leads to cutting edge mixed routes. The climbs here are presented in order from North to South, which is not necessarily the order they are encountered in. These climbs are obvious from the parking lot on the west side ( the right side if looking upcanyon ) of Hyalite canyon.
Approach- Hike up the Hylite Canyon trail for about 150 yds., to a clearing on the right. Turn right here , cross the creek, and begin working your way up the slope on the opposite side. There will probably be a good track, which may or may not take the best route. The first part is through difficult blowndown trees, with the middle and upper part of the approach staying to the left ( South ) of a small bush choked gulley; becoming steep at the top. 20-30 min. from the car! This track usually brings you to a cliff band between Unnamed #1 and the Thrill is Gone. A trail runs all along below this cliff, giving access to every climb between Black Magic and the Elevator Shaft.
You can check out many climbs on this wall from the parking lot- just look upcanyon and slightly to the west.
Descents- Every climb at the Unnamed Wall area is one full pitch long ( 55 m or less ), and has a tree with rap slings at the top of it. Consider bringing new webbing to replace old worn out stuff, and maybe a steel hardware store screw link if you want to perform a public service!
Black Magic- WI5, 5.9, 160'
Approach-Hike right (north) 5-10 minutes from
where the trail first intersects the cliff at Unnamed #1 below a series of
steep volcanic walls. A classic mixed climb- solid steep crack climbing,
which runs out just in time for the beginning of the ice. It hasn’t
formed in the last few years; late season climb.
FA
Smears for Fears- 5.11, WI 7+, X, 200'
This is the smear to the right of "Smear Today...". Start in a small
corner, then bulgy step, the climb a smear to a bowl.
FA
Smear Today Gone Tomorrow- 5.11-, WI 7, 160'
Begin at a detached block somewhat right of "Come and Get It". Bring Hyalite mixed rack.
FA
The Shores of Pluto- 5.9+, WI 5+ 180'
This climb, which rarely forms, is located 400' left of Black Magic.
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Alex Lowe on the first ascent of
Smear Today, Gone Tomorrow. |
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Come and Get It Wall - has some of the steep and gnarly new routes in Hyalite! A concave wall about 50 yards right of where the trail first intersects the cliff; just past a short uphill on the access trail which drops down steep sidehilling for a few feet to the wall and the base of the routes. <Insert map>
Expanding Horizons — 5.11, WI 6+, 130'
A modern mixed climb. Scramble a short bit to steep moves ( on natural pro) to a
blank slab below a roof. Blast out left and up, on strenuous bolted
climbing to the ice.FA
Pete Tapleys Thing- 5.11+
10 ft. left of Expanding Horizons is a
fully bolted variation. Beware of loose blocks. FA
Come and Get It - 5.11, WI 6, 170'
THE classic mixed rock and Ice
climb of Hyalite. Climb steep curtain ice for 25’ to a rock roof that
leads out left (fp). Then follow thin ice or hard rock straight up to a
right facing crack (another fp here). Follow this crack to wherever you
are able to get onto the ice. Early/ broad season climb.
FA
Grassroots Revival- 5.10, WI 6, 170'
This climb is 20’ left of
Come and Get It. Some moss-tool placements intrude on the quality of this
climb. Start on thin ice, work left, then up to one bolt, then back right
slightly to several more bolts. Go up a small column of ice,then angle
out left on a drool of ice and then chunky rock to the top.
FA
Magically Delicious- 5.7, WI 4,130'
In a mossy, right-facing corner
before dropping down to the CAGI wall. Usually more rock than ice.
FA
Fatty Access Ice ( aka Jeff's Right)- WI 3+, 110'
One step at the bottom, which is
sometimes thin. An under appreciated climb.
FA
Jeff's Left WI 6-
This climb varies greatly according to how much ice is present. Lots of
ice can make it easy; in thin conditions it is a tricky mixed climb. ( with
reasonable pro) FA
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The left side of Unnamed Wall as viewed from across the canyon. |
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Bingo World- WI 5/6 X, 140'
This climb is a curtain hanging over a
massive roof; in one spot, a free hanging dagger reaches down, and
occasionally touches- it is never fat. Contemplate carefully the
consequences of a collapse before even toproping this climb. Rarely
led. FA
Bulldog World- M9, 140 '
Look for bolts at the left edge of Bingo World-
they may be covered or difficult to see because of ice. Climb up a small
rock corner, traverse right, then pull the roof with a series of strenuous
figure-4 moves to reach cruiser ice.
FA
The Thrill is Gone-WI 4, 5.8, 150'
In a left facing chimney/corner; a
talus slope lies below. An excellent climb, which protects well with
shorter screws at the top; stoppers, Tricams and TCUs at the bottom.
FA
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Kris Erickson trying his luck with
Bingo World |
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Sharp Dressed Man (aka Unnamed #2 )- Mixed
20 ft left of the
Thrill is Gone. 5 bolts lead up to the same ice as the Thrill. FA Alex Low and
Doug Chabot in fat conditions. Bolts courtesy of Tom Kalakay
in normal conditions.
FA
Unnamed #3, WI 4, thin 5.8. Begins near some pines at its base.Very thin ice or rock at the bottom leads to a smear which leads into belay trees at the top. FA
Unnamed # 4- WI 2+ located about 25 yds before The Fat one and 15 yds left of Unnamed #3FA
The Big Fat One ( aka Unnamed #5 )- WI 3-, 160 '
A classic first lead.
Begin with 25 ft. of steep ice, which rolls quickly back to finish off the
full pitch at 60 deg. An additional 30 ft. of climbing lies below the
start. FA
The Elevator Shaft- WI 3+, 240 '
Approach-This climb is a short hike left ( South
) the from the other climbs of the Unnamed Wall. Contour about 5 minutes
past the Big Fat One to a small amphitheatre eroded by the drainage. The
Elevator Shaft flows from a cleft on the south side of the amphitheatre.
A short step above provides a second pitch.
The ice is is often funky. FA
Unnamed Wall | Twin Falls Area | Upper Hyalite Climbs | Dribbles Area Climbs | Winter Dance Area | The Mummies | Genesis Area | Flanders Drainage | East Hyalite Climbs
Ice climbing is dangerous. This guide is provided as a substitute for climbing. I recommend sitting at home behind the TV instead. If you do decide to go ice climbing, you will experience an E6 ( 6 on the Epic scale), which involves quite a bit of suffering, injury, and death.
Comments? Questions? Contact Us: Jimurl@MontanaIce.com
