The new anchors on the Scepter are wonderful and drop you right on the ledge on the left side of the pillar on rappel, but be sure to KNOT THE ENDS of your ropes! For toproping, I recommend adding a couple full-length runners to the anchor so you'll have a bit more rope to work with. I lead the route yesterday, then lowered off, cleaning most of the screws I had placed, but leaving a couple as directionals for my partner. Leaving one strand running through a couple screws may have been unnecessary and was probably the reason the 60 m rope barely reached the ground. If I'd extended the anchor with my cordellette or a couple full-length runners it would have been perfect.
Ice conditions on Scepter were very entertaining, with overhanging cauliflower formations in the middle.
- Log in to post comments