Mummy IV.

Climbed Mummy 4 yesterday afternoon with Whit Magro. G1 to Scepter trail is well established making access a breeze. Scepter was climbed many times already. Plenty of hooking options and a good rest in the “middle”. Gully above is not loaded much. We went up on the rock almost all the way. Snow felt stable on the way down as well. No cracking or slabs breaking even when we run on it. Not much ice on Mummy 3. One can climbed the right side OK, but there is not enough ice to get a good ice screw. As for protection on top half dry tooling on the left seems like better option right now. Mummy 4 in thin, WI6 conditions. 20’ to a good ice, then 3 tricky left-right-left traverses gets you to the top pillar base. Great lead in the afternoon sun. Be safe and have fun! Tomas