Climbed Matrix and Mummy II today. The Matrix was in fat, touching the snow cone as a thin pencil which quickly widens. You can safely leave the rock gear at home. Upped part was fat as well but VERY brittle. Mummy II was also in GREAT and very wet shape. More to my surprise was the lack of a bolted anchor on the left side. Descended via scepter. Any news on what happened to the belay? Scepter was purt near a waterfall over the ice. Would get very very wet while climbing it. She might need a break from traffic to form up a bit and hopefully then stop pissing. Cheers
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Mummy Anchor
The bolt anchor on Mummy II was removed, or more appropriately came out. One of the bolts came out and people are trying to figure out the best way to replace it safely. There is a fine tree up and right at the top of Mummy II. This tree has been used for decades and works just fine although you do need two ropes to descend in one rappel. Alternatively, you can put in a V-thread on the low-angle part in the middle of the route.