New Route on the G1 Wall
My Jewish Girlfriend *** 35m, M4
FA: Ari Novak, Craig Pope, Joe Josephson. February 21, 2012
This is probably the best "easy" mixed climb in the canyon. It has eight bolts leading to the top and then a tree with a rap sling. A 70 meter rope just works for top roping. The bolts may be hard to find after a snowfall but the route should become popular enough that it gets cleaned off regularly.
The route follows a curving line of least resistance starting at the low spot downhill and left of "Clump Tree Gully." The obvious corner crack that starts above a short blank wall on the right side of the this area is the route "Deadfall Gully" although the dead tree that gave the later route it's name is no longer there.
The crux of the route is at the bottom on nice black andesite. Lower-angled and featured rock with good turf leads to a slightly steeper exit. There is an optional 0.5 Camalot (or equivalent) placement before the last bolt.
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Climbed this yesterday, fun
Climbed this yesterday, fun climb and a good "intro to mixed" route. Thanks for putting this in guys!