new route on barronette

Submitted by rlynn on Tue, 11/29/2005 - 22:45
[img]http://montanaice.com/forums/user_images/_overview3.jpg[/img] the pillar on the right of the photo is dancing with the hippo. the next drainage to the left (hard to see) is jim and jeff's excellent adventure img][img]http://montanaice.com/forums/user_images/triage3.jpg[/img] 1st &3rd pitches yet to have been climbed. we did what we think was the 1st ascent of "let it come down" WI 5+, 35m.

Approach info: "let it come down" Park at Barronette, drop down to the creek, crossing where you can and continue towards the routes until you meet the cross-country ski trail. Follow this trail until you reach the clearing below the three pillars, walk just past the clearing, hiking through the trees to the base of the cliff where you can traverse into "let it come down". One could also take the approach for "Dancing with the Hippo", climbing it first then traversing the ledge to "let it come down". Bring your guns for these two! With any luck the ice will continue to grow and the first pitch will form an exceptional 100+ft freestanding pillar. The 1st and 3rd pitches were still a long way from touching but you never know. A great addition to the Barronette climbs! For those that are looking for something other than Hyalite, the conditions in Cooke are great with considerably less snow right now. Looks as though, Marlboro Madness, Dancing with the Hippo, Barronette Falls, Silver gate climbs, Jim and Jeff's adv, Renewable Resource, and the Hydromonster are all in. Enjoy the climbing! Kristoffer Erickson

Anonymous (not verified)

Thu, 12/08/2005 - 22:34

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Ty Mack and I climbed this route back in the late 90's. Its the climb described as "Renewable Resource" in the Winter Dance guide. Because of my feeble memory and lack of a photo, I was unable to provide Jojo with reliable information for his guide. Sorry for the confusion. We were able to do a first pitch in 1999, I think that was the year, but not via the enticing icicle that dangles from the lip of the amphitheatre. Instead there was a thin mixed smear off to the left (dashed yellow line in photo, M5-shit for gear). There were tracks at the base of the second pitch, so we were suspicious somebody else might have climbed it before us. We did not climb the third pitch although it was formed. I've returned a couple times to this climb with intentions to tackle the overhanging headwall below the lower icicle. On these return trips, I've not seen a hint of ice on the pitch we originally climbed. [img]http://www.rocky.edu/~kalakayt/RR.jpg[/img] [b]First pitch shown in yellow[/b]

climbed this in the late 90's as well. In 02/03 season it was huge and obvious. Right of baronette falls in the big avy gulley is another route worth doing in oct or nov that is moderate with some wi4 steps. Lots of it gets buried in snow and is dangerous later in the year.
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