Falling On A Ice Piton

good idea to have one or two for turf/rock. Rack as to not impale yourself?? The nice ones have open slings. They can be bastardly to get out of tight rock placements. I also sprayed about pound in screws. Like someone else noted, there has never been a time I thought gee I wish I had one of those. I guess they were a cheap, albeit pointless, way to supplement the rack; I got a couple mostly for the relic factor. -Olin

Two Cents on Spectre Ice Pitons: Place them on vertical or overhanging terrian only. Set them in pick slots - this will reduce the amount of ice displaced. Be Safe, Conrad

Was the fall on low angle terrain and would you consider the forces generated were severe, moderate or light? Do you recall the actual climb? My comment on placing them in low angle situations is just a hunch, nothing proven or tested. As long as the eye is buried the forces will be the same, even if it is a slab, so I could be way off base. They are sweet in steep terrain to get rope weight off your harness and allow a shake out. c

spray deleted...

While climbing the Rooster's Comb in Alaska, my partner took a 30 footer onto a Spectre that was placed in a vertical ice choked corner. The ice was only 15 inches wide and maybe 6 inches thick and I am still amazed that it held... Had the piece ripped, our ascent would probably have come to an end. I believe that the amount of rope available for stretch played a key role in the security of the Spectre.

I still have one of those CAMP Snargs; but I only use it for teaching. That is, to show how much easier ice climbing has become. In my opinion, the Snarg has been totally replaced by modern screws. I can't think of a situation when I said to myself, "Gee I wish I had that Snarg instead of this Turbo." The Spectre is a whole different story. It works in places where nothing else will. As for falling, didn't the crash test dummies from northern Montana do some tests on them? I recall them saying that at the ice fest.

i talked to 'mr. whipper' regarding this question- he stated that as with all of his tests, the quality of the ice is the most important factor. spectres in good ice have held falls, in questionable ice they have failed.he said that he's been caught by tied-off shorties if the ice is good, been let down by longest of screws in poor ice. confirms what most people intuitively believe... also, he said he always uses screamers for his tests. casey

Sheeet, Boy! [quote="T Cozzens"]While climbing the Rooster's Comb in Alaska, my partner took a 30 footer onto a Spectre that was placed in a vertical ice choked corner. The ice was only 15 inches wide and maybe 6 inches thick and I am still amazed that it held... Had the piece ripped, our ascent would probably have come to an end. I believe that the amount of rope available for stretch played a key role in the security of the Spectre.[/quote] Yeah, I can see where ice in a crack would be a lot better for spectre placement.

if i put a spectre in, i definitlely put a screamer on it. i have been known to place them in moss, or on the top of climbs early season, where there is not enough ice to even get a stubby in. as for placing into rock, there is a reason in carry some pitons every time i go out (yes even in cody). they have saved my butt more than once. my thought on a spectre, if you look at the mechanics and physics of how they work, if it is a somewhat linear fall, it will, in theory hold. i have never fell on one, but i have felt very confident moving up on a good placement, when there was no other option, when i just KNEW it would hold. just my $0.02