Submitted by Sam Magro on Sun, 10/07/2007 - 12:44
We went to the Sphinx on Saturday in full winter conditions. There was a weak layer about 3-4 inches down and we released the miniature slabs all the way across the traverse. The Lowe route was in, Pat and I climbed the crux pillar though it was a bit thin and hollow sounding. Snow was mid thigh to chest deep between pitches. Ty and Casey may have put up a new route just to the right not knowing it????? All the same they found 3 pitches of good to thin ice and a rocky top out. Now is the time...get it while it is good.

Climbed the Lowe Route with Ben Wilkinson on Tuesday. It was a perfect day with no wind, clouds or bears. The climbing was fun and the sunset on top was unbelievable. This is the year, enjoy.

Went and climbed the upper Lowe Route on 10/12. With clear skies and warm temps we had a stellar day on the ice. On the approach we noted a set of Huge Grizzly tracks in the snow near the Saddle that appeared to be a few days old. The snow on the traverse was solid and no instablity was noted. However, a 1/4in crust has developed on most of the snow on the north face and with more snow it could be a potenial layer for snow to slide on. The ice was as Sam M. noted in, but thin in spots. The ice was wet down the center and thin and dry near the edges. This made for great swings and tricky screw placements in areas. Cheers, Jason [img]http://montanaice.com/forums/user_images/Sphnix 0029.jpg[/img] [img]http://montanaice.com/forums/user_images/Sphnix 0038.jpg[/img]

Just thought that I would drop a little info about the snowpack around the Sphinx. It's shitty! Justin G. and I headed up on Saturday and were surprised at the full on conditions we experienced; snow, blowing snow, and whoomphing. Wrapped around to the north side terraces and had two instances where the snow settled around us. That was enough to turn us around. So if heading up that way, be careful. Lots of ice to climb yet this winter. Apple