Sunday Sphinx

Submitted by A Dum on Mon, 10/22/2007 - 19:17
Sunday was quite the day. Having just read Mr. Apple's account, their retreat is not surpising. The only thing which kept Cameron and myslef trudging forward was the severe itch to swing ice tools and the partnering of Peter Ramos and Andy Knob. Once on the long traverse the snow seemed a bit more settled than that of Saturday's conditions with no natural movement anywhere and no whoomping at all. We were wading up our chests for most of the way with everyone taking turns in the lead. Once at the climbs, Cameron and myself chose the far right line (the first climbable smear) and Ramos and Knob went off to the fat looking Lowe route a ways to our left. Our climb was full on. Good ice conditions were found on the first long pitch but but a scary, poorly proteced second pitch started the business. Having no idea what the topout would be like we continued upward through two more descent ice pitches with weird belays and ok protection. With the clock ticking well past 5 pm we were delighted to see a weakness leading around the corner and to moderate ground twoard the summit platue. A smooth walk down got us to the car twelve hours after leaving it. It was much colder and deeper than expected so the routes should be around a while. A few medium stoppers and specters were useful. Otherwise eight or nine screws will do with a few stubbies. Overall a great climb! Happy Hunting