Hyalite Canyon Ice Conditions

Checkin on conditions

Thanks

Jason

 I know the season isnt over yet but I was curious about late season ice and its quality. Is late season ice like early season ice? For instance early season ice may be thin but its still climable; is it the same for late seasosn ice? Or, when you see thin ice in the late season, do you weigh-your-options a little more? Are there red flags that say hey, this chunk of ice is done for the year? Is there a certain duration of x-degree weather that should be a big warning? I figured there are a few of us that could benefit from the experience of veteran climbers.

 Hey, i lost 1 Black Diamond Expedition Ski Pole while setting a top rope on the left side of Genesis I.  Knew i lost it, searched all over the area, but could not find it.  If someone else does, please let me know.  The link below is a pic.  Thanks

www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/shop/ski/ski-poles/expedition-ski-pole

 Yesterday Bud and I foolishly skipped 30 inches of pow to go mixed climbing. The day was productive with successful leads of both my new route and the Hyalite classic. Earn Your Keep is a touch harder than Come and Get It but protects really well heading to the bolts. A strange drip appeared in the last two days down low giving the opening twenty feet a really fun ice smear.  The first piece should be a screw and the next piece is a fixed pecker that Kyler left because the crack that once took a stopper is choked with ice.  

Found a nice ski pole in the Hyalite Main Fork parking lot. Took it to the Northern Lights climbing shop, give them the make and pick it up.

Climbed Sleeping Giant Falls on Saturday 1/26. Ice was in great condition as it seems to get fairly little sun (it did start to get wet later in the afternoon. The current anchor is a combo of two dead trees, seemed to be hanging in there for now.  I had never climbed it before and had spoken to several folks who tried unsuccessfully to find it, so I will mention our approach.

 I established an incredible new line 30 feet right of Come and Get It today.  The climbing starts on two obvious ice blobs right of Come and Get It and leads directly up from the smaller " left " blob through a series of blocky roofs. The first 50 feet trend slightly left to directly below the obvious big ice mushrooms 50 feet up.   This opening section is naturally protected by half a set of small to medium stoppers, the first five sizes of C3 cams and a fixed blade at the 25 foot mark.   A bolt protects the strenuous moves gaining the ice mushrooms.

 With these warm temps,  climbs like Maiden Voyage and In Search of Sunrise look in prime shape!  Who's ready?  

 Had a great day yesterday with Martin which included ascents of both Through Four More and Home field Advantage.  The latter is climbing great right now but takes some thought and natural gear. Of course the bottom is protected by bolts which are most easily clipped by staying in the seam to the left.  After reaching the last bolt solid hooks lend to a secure stance which make placing a solid number one Camelot and yellow C3 in the crack above comfortable. These pieces give good piece of mind to move right onto the ice.   The climbing to the top is bomber.

Climbed Cleo's yesterday, and while it's not particularly big right now the crux pitch offers several good options: up the right side of the pillar for straight-forward class V climbing - it looks quite chadeliered but took good screws the whole way; or far left side for one-foot-on-the-rock and one-on-the-ice. Both of these options were mostly dry, but separated by a section of chandeliered ice that was pooring water.