New Routes Archive

This is the route exiting the right side of the Bingo World cave. Adam Knoff and I visted the cave in January of 2003 and drilled the first two bolts. As the following images indicate it was kinda loose with big bad blocks.

[img]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3354/3196989535_9045a6f0a9.jpg[/img]

Before trundle.

[img]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3363/3197834742_c6333b5bb4.jpg[/img]

Mid flight.

Haven't heard of this being done before anyway.  We actually did it a year ago and named it Arctic Kiss.

 

Stumbling around high in the Flanders basin looking for Kalakay's obscure Fact or Flanders last winter, Bubba and myself discovered a most unique feature:  out of the ceiling of a small alcove adjacent to Flanders Field, a tunnel rose into the darkness, with a window of light at the top revealing it's exit.  A crack in the rear of the tube made its safe ascent look feasible; however, lacking either headlamps or whiskey, we decided to save the project until we were better prepared.

This last Saturday my partner Neil and I climbed a new line off of the Dribble. The line starts from the right side of the dribbles after pitch 2. The line has the same start as the pitch 3 variation, though after 20ft it continues up the corner and chimney system for another 200ft to the top of the wall.(this is just barely left of the d in the Dribbles overwiew pic in winter dance). Though it appeared the pitch would be holding ice, it was almost exsclusively rock with some moss and snow. I am calling it Young and Dumb, M3 RR 220ft.

On saturday Kyler Pallister and I went up to the cleos area and ended up climbing the pillar to the far right of cleos. JoJo was up there and said it had never formed and that it hadnt been climbed. Anyone think its airborne ranger? Im not sure. Fun though and stable. 5+. Nice lead by Ky. Today we skipped school and climbed the hanger to between the Matriarch and Cleos.

Today we climbed what seems to be labeled as Smears for Fears on p.71 of Winter Dance. However, it is not the climb that is pictured on p. 72-73 (labeled also as Smears for Frears, but I think it?s the right side of Smear Today, Gone Tomorrow). Anyhow, we climbed the farthest line on the right on the first picture, with the pillar at the top. [img]http://montanaice.com/forums/user_images/SmearsForFears5.jpg[/img] The climb was thin at the start, for sure. I used several shorties but did not feel very psyched about them.