Steve Trafton and I climbed the Sphinx on Tuesday the 27th. We had full winter blizzard conditions and good ice. All the routes up there are in.
I had one windloaded pocket rip and slide when I triggered it, but other than that the conditions were stable on the approach across the north face. Note that it snowed a lot that day and there was significant windloading happening all day. Be careful with all the new snow!
whit
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11/6 Sphinx
A friend and I went to the sphinx today, everything is good and fat. With exception to the Lowe Direct which we were going for. The snow was fairly stable, with lots of spin-drifts coming off the top. Looks to be a great weekend!
11/8
Climbed the Lowe Route on the 8th. The ice is fat from the grade 5 pitch to the summit ridge. The Lowe Direct wasn't in, but with the snow it is possible to piece togeather a snow, ice and rock route from the bottom of the face all the way to the base of the Lowe Route proper. Not nearly as clean as the Lowe Direct, but a fun romp nonetheless.
A good size slab came down the second pitch of the Lowe Route before we got on the route. It looks like there was a good bit of windloading in the gully just under the third pitch.
11/8
Climbed the Lowe Route on the 8th. The ice is fat from the grade 5 pitch to the summit ridge. The Lowe Direct wasn't in, but with the snow it is possible to piece togeather a snow, ice and rock route from the bottom of the face all the way to the base of the Lowe Route proper. Not nearly as clean as the Lowe Direct, but a fun romp nonetheless.
A good size slab came down the second pitch of the Lowe Route before we got on the route. It looks like there was a good bit of windloading in the gully just under the third pitch.
11/8
Climbed the Lowe Route on the 8th. The ice is fat from the grade 5 pitch to the summit ridge. The Lowe Direct wasn't in, but with the snow it is possible to piece togeather a snow, ice and rock route from the bottom of the face all the way to the base of the Lowe Route proper. Not nearly as clean as the Lowe Direct, but a fun romp nonetheless.
A good size slab came down the second pitch of the Lowe Route before we got on the route. It looks like there was a good bit of windloading in the gully just under the third pitch.