With no ice in sight

Scottish Cliff Work on this cliff started in 2010 when Rusty Willis, Martin Zabaleta and some dude from Butte named Phil and I did the first cleaning of loose rock and established a number of anchors. Being low angle and highly featured, the cliff offers mixed climbing more like you might find on a mountaineering route than the usual steep M route. Despite its proximity to G1 and the easy grades, it failed to catch on due to the difficulty finding the anchors for top roping. After several more efforts at cleaning, I finally got around to bolting some lines to encourage more activity. They were bolted on lead just after the "Halloween Thaw of Twenty Twelve." There are likely no moves on the wall harder than 5.6 with most of it closer to 5.2. However, it is mossy and crampons definitely make it easier in places, while drytooling actually makes it harder on the big juggy holds. The climbing is quite fun, much harder when covered with snow, and should become a popular venue for learning rock climbing with crampons. Note: beware of loose rock and careful of people below you. The new approach trail to Mummy 2 and The Scepter goes right under this cliff, so folks may appear out of the blue. Location: This cliff "right of G1" is not to be confused with the popular M6 routes immediately right of the ice. The Scottish Cliff is just right of the steep part of the trail going up and around G1 before the trail cuts back left. Approach: As per the new approach to Mummy 2, cut right just as the trail around G1 gets steep and go down a short distance to the bottom of the cliff. If so inspired to set top ropes, you can easily reach a big grassy platform at the top of the cliff by either walking around the right side or from the left near the top of G1 just before the little rock step. From the platform, it is a short rap to the anchors which are on lower angle rock and so might be hard to find if covered with snow. No Hawkers or Campbells * 30m, 5.4 FA: Joe Josephson, Paola Feher. November 4, 2012 Follow the line of bolts that starts directly behind the big tree. After some steeper and mossy moves past the first few bolts, the angle kicks back and the holds get bigger and better. Continue past six bolts total to a chain anchor. Single Malt ** 30 m, 5.4 FA: Joe Josephson, Paola Feher, Wendy Marsh. November 4, 2012 This is immediately right of "No Hawkers" and similar in nature but less moss. Climb past six bolts to a chain anchor. Teardrop of Water ** 30 m, 5.5 FA: Joe Josephson, Wendy Marsh. November 3, 2012 As told to me by a whiskey expert in Edinburgh, any scotch must start with a "teardrop of water" to unlock the complex flavors. Likewise, this was the first route on the cliff. Start up a small left-leaning ledge toward two small trees then up to the first bolt. Steep moves lead to easier ground and some loose rock. After the fifth bolt, continue up a clean low angle slab to a chain anchor just below the mossy loose stuff leading to the top platform. Sent from my iPad