Call to arms.

 I'm keen to get after it this weekend

 Make us proud boys!!!!

 Where are "climbs like Maiden Voyage and In Search of Sunrise"? I assume on Maid of the Mist, but what's the beta?  I still can't find Bourbon Tan. I heard it was on the FAR Right of side of the cliff  Left of hangover but that seems like it should be slightly left of Hangover.  I bet there are a bunch of other awesome lines out there known only to a select few. Is this done on purpose to keep the kooks like me away? Is there a secret society of all knowing climbers hoarding beta? I guess if there was it would be kept secret.  If only there was some way to document and disperse information on new climbs in the area. How about we let the hikers, skiers, tree cutters, ice fisherman and graphitti artists chip in for the road plowing so some of the Ice Fest funds can go into First Ascent Press. I would gladly pay for an addendum to Winter Dance or an up to date Hyalite Guide.

Big thanks to the route developers for all the hard work, time and money you guys put in. 

garblondo

Maiden Voyage is on Maid of the Mist as suspected.  Whit posted about this a year or two ago, search this site for 'Madien Voyage"...not sure if the misspelling is on purpose.  Don't know where In Search of Sunrise is, maybe the route that takes Palace Butte Falls to the top of the face, also done by Whit?  Bourbon Tan is on the far right of the wall to the right of Hangover, if that makes sense.  It starts in a bomb-bayish chimney and has no ice right now, but the first pitch is probably climbable.  You will see bolts a little ways up.  In between this and Hangover is Whiskey Dick which has the blobs of ice currently seen up high, as a reference point.

There was talk of an update to Winter Dance covering just Hyalite coming out soon, but we shall see. 

Hope this helps.

Not sure if there is any secret society to keep info from others. If there is, I'm not a member.

Below is what I currently have for the routes right of Hangover & some routes on the Maid. I've been collecting route info like crazy and a new Hyalite update is mostly written (250+ routes). Need lots of photos, time to put it together and some money to print it.

Bourbon Tan **

55m, M8 WI 3

FA: Craig Pope, Marko Pujic. January 28, 2011.

Although a few people had poked at this over the years, it is somewhat fascinating that a route so visible from the parking lot took so long to get established. Most hard mixed routes in Hyalite take considerable effort to establish and this was no exception. Several days of equiping and sorting out the details have created another modern classic. Both Craig and Marko redpointed the route.

Location: Every year, early season, a narrow icicle pours over the chimney system on the far right side of the cliff face to the right of Hang Over. It often sublimates away by mid-winter.

Route: Start in the overhanging bomb bay chimney to a thin smear on left side. Climb past four bolts on the roof, to thin ice and natural gear. At 25 m look for a bolted anchor/rap station to the right before starting the last 30 m of good, classy ice to slings on a small, but solid tree. Bring half rack of med-large nuts and small set cams to #4. In February 2012, Kyler Pallister and Josh Apple climbed the route with little to no ice present.

Descent: Rappel from tree to anchor (full 30 m rap), then rappel the chimney.

Whiskey Dick ***

60 m, M6+

FA: Kyler Pallister, Josh Apple. February 2012.

This takes the last significant line found in the middle of the Hang Over wall to the left of Bourbon Tan. Bolted black rock with white cobbles leads across the lip of an overhang to a broad, brown groove leading into a yellow smear that forms every year. Follow ice past a steep pillar to a bolt anchor. Climb up and right into a groove on the right side of a small prow and then up a grey corner to a stubby icicle below the top. An alternative finish steps left up from the anchor and keeps going that direction onto a broad ice flow.

The Whiskey Sweats **

70 m, M5+ R WI 4

FRA: Pete Tapley, Danny Suttor. 1997

In "Winter Dance" (2004), this route was mentioned as an afterthought to another under-appreciated route then called Hang Over Variation. But it's a nice line with considerably different character than the Hang Over routes and it deserves more attention.

Location: A shallow, grassy groove about 15 feet right of Hang Over. At one time there was an angle piton marking the start but it's doubtful it's still there. The route is obvious. Bring a small rack including pitons with some larger cams to protect the start.

Route: Steep moves off the ground lead into the groove. Continue up a grassy slot that sometimes gets icy to join Ketosis at the chimney. Sometimes the mixed climbing continues through the chimney but usually it's narrow, thin ice. Continue up a variety of ice lines to the trees.

Descent: Two rope rappel from tree.

Ketosis ***

70 m, WI 4

FRA: Peter Carse, Amy Bullard. January 9, 1996.

Formerly known as the Hang Over Variation, this worthwhile climb deserved its own name. It leads right onto the enticing flows of yellow ice frequently seen pouring over the buttress right of Hang Over.

Route: Climb the bottom 20 m of Hang Over to the first big tree commonly used as a top rope anchor. Many people belay here to avoid rope drag. Traverse right 10 m on a ledge to a short chimney. Climb the chimney on narrow, yellow ice to easier ground and a tree. Gradually thicker, yet steeper ice (WI 4) leads to the top.

Descent: Two rope rappel from tree.

MAID IN THE MIST
Perched independently of the primary Hyalite ridge, Maid in the Mist Mountain (9,563 feet) lies immediately to the south of Palace Butte and is very much its nasty little brother. The northeast face is arguably the single most impressive cliff in Hyalite with an unmistakable icicle, or two, hanging out in the middle of the tiered face. This cliff has taunted climbers for years and slowly it's becoming unlocked. Yet, in some ways, this feature remains a future generation's Winter Dance.

Approach: Follow the main Grotto Falls trail for about 2.5 to 3 miles. Somewhere past The Dribbles trail and near the sign for Silken Skein Falls you will cut right toward the mountain. If you are early season and looking for a dry creek crossing, there is a big fallen tree over the creek about 20 paces past the Silken Skein Falls sign.

There are several gullies lining the bottom of the northeast face. The right-hand of these gullies contains a number of easier flows and takes you right into the bowl containing the climb. This is recommended only if you are doing an early season climb with little snow on the ground. Otherwise traverse in on the ledge described below.

Later in the season when there is backcountry skiing, follow the (sometimes) obvious skin track that gains the pass between Maid in the Mist and Palisade Butte. Before you reach the top of the pass, head left across the broad treed ledge. Follow this ledge as far as you can on skis, don your crampons and tools, and keep traversing to the base of your route through some "mountaineering" terrain. Some folks have descended by skiing down the gully directly below the face, with one short rap over an ice bulge.

Maiden Voyage ***
200 m, 5.9 R
FA: Whit Magro, Adam Knoff. November 16, 2008

This fabulous journey up the wide east buttress of the Maid in the Mist is yet another in a growing number of winter rock routes being done in Hyalite. Usually done by eager ice climbers that just can't wait for conditions to improve, these sort of routes may well become a more regular Hyalite pastime. Indeed, the position on this route is one of the best in the canyon and the adventure element high. They are generally much easier and enjoyable, both on approach and on the climb, with lighter snow coverage.

Rack: Double ropes, runners for slinging cobbles, 1 set of cams up to a #2 Camalot, stoppers, 2 Spectres, 4 blades of various sizes, angles, and what ever else you like to nail in except bolts.

Route: The route snakes up the path of least resistance to end at a large tree at the top of the wall. Both Adam and Whit highly recommend this voyage that is more heady than it is hard. The route itself is clear of trees and vegetation but great turf climbing is found the whole way up. According to Whit, "I think we called it 5.9 but most of it is in the 5.7 range. You can sling a lot of cobble stones. Just expect really shitty rock, marginal gear, and a super fun adventure."

Pitch one starts almost in the middle of the buttress, has a distinct crux and ends on a ramp at the 70 meter mark. The second pitch goes up and angles left a bit following the weakness via a large groove. This pitch is over 60 m so a bit of simul-climbing may be needed to reach the belay. The third pitch follows the obvious line as well as the last pitch ending at the tree. If time and conditions allow you could follow a spectacular ridge line to the summit.

Descent: Starting with the finishing tree, five double rope rappels straight down using piton and stopper anchors.

The Maiden ***
120 m, 5.9, WI 5+
FA: Nate Opp, Doug Marberger. February, 2005.

One of the most prominent hunks of ice in all of Hyalite, this icicle forms differently year to year and varies wildly in volume. It is fair to say, it needs to be pretty big to be climbable. Kris Erickson and others had a go at in the late 1990s but were rebuffed by miles of poor rock without even reaching the ice. On the first ascent, Nate found the left side to come down much farther than usual and was able to manage a surprisingly straightforward ascent. Make no mistake however, the relative modest grade is as much a reflection on Nate's talent as it was the excellent conditions. Expect a serious sandbag.

Route: Starting on the left climb rock to a natural belay on top of some ledges. Climb 5.9 rock past one bolt to the ice. Continue up the ice to the ledge. It is entirely unknown just how well the icicle needs to be formed for this route to be considered "in". The icicle above and additional rock tiers remain unclimbed.

Descent: Rappel the route.

Dirty Maid **
M7, WI 5+
FA: Kyler Pallister, Josh Apple. January 2012.

This is the right-hand of two icicles in the middle of the face. This route likely forms more regularly than The Maiden.

First pitch is the business, second is a steep, thin, vibrating WI 5 pillar.  Josh led the first after winning the rock paper scissor and punched it quite a ways above the last bolt on thin ice before he could get pro.
 

 Any chance someone could draw where the maiden and dirty maid are on a picture?

here's something I pulled off google images

Also, where is search of sunrise? Grade?

Maiden voyage is still awaiting a second ascent. I convinced my partner to leave the skis at home (because I'm a dumbass) so we postholed all the way up. The main approach gully had sketchy windslab so we traversed around the right, coming in at the highest snowfield. I'm not sure where the crux is on the first pitch, but this could be a potential bypass. We bailed due to the lower half of our bodies being soaking wet and the sun dissapearing behind the face.

The Maiden is the obvious icicle in the middle of the face on The Maid of the Mist Mountain. The route starts to the left of the fall line somewhere. Dirty Maid is an icicle that sometimes forms to the right of the main 'cicle. I don't think it's in at all. All of the yellow ice climbs on the lower band of the Maid have been climbed and could be used as an approach to the main face.  Search of Sunrise is an extension of Palace Butte Falls going to the top of the face.