New Route: Winter Pants M6 WI3+ 300m

Submitted by Thrash on Wed, 11/26/2008 - 14:47

After crashing out at the trail head Ty Nygaard, Justin Griffin and I woke at 4am and wandered in the direction of ice dragons. The walk is lengthy but a pleasant tennis shoes experience most of the way. The bears face loomed in the darkness, threatening to maul dawn suitors, but benevolently allowing penetration up a chossy gully to its side. We abandoned rucksacks at the base of the descent ridge and euro styled it to the base of our objective, the obvious hanging smear to the right of ice dragons. We pulled on our winter pants and climbed. Some easy steep snow and short ice step soloing brought us to the base of the first pitch, a right trending ramp with a steep section at the start (m4 60m). The second pitch climbed a obvious open book with a small roof to run out moss climbing (m5 60m). The third pitch climbed a clean right facing corner over a bulge on excellent rock with excellent protection to a difficult face crux and belay at a ledge just left of the ice (m6 20m). Pitches 4-6 were mostly ice climbing on beautiful, featured thin ice. Pitch 4 was notable with difficult climbing to reach solid ice followed by brilliant sticks in a fun corner. Descend as for ice dragons. A fun route on good rock, a must do and a long day.

 

 

 

 

 

Nice work on the new route guys. Depending on the year, there are quite a few new route options "right of Ice Dragons." Can you mark your line on this photo?

Five Mile Creek Cirque