Hyalite Canyon Ice Conditions

Hello Everyone, It's that time again - the 17th Annual Bozeman Ice Climbing Festival is upon us. For the first time ever, the festival is now fully incorporated under Friends of Hyalite, a 501c3 dedicated to helping fund the road plowing in winter so we can all enjoy Hyalite Canyon. Everyone needs to check out the Gallatin National Forest Avalanche Center Advisory. It appears the conditions in Hyalite are more suspect than anyone can remember. Lots of loaded pockets in places one least suspects it or have taken for granted. PLEASE be safe, be smart and be conservative out there.

Avalanche activity reported around the Dribbles/Avalanche Gulch area. From today's advisory: Wind-loading over the last 36 hours has changed the stability for the worse. Avalanches were reported yesterday: a small natural slide at the head of Truman Gulch in the Bridger Range, a natural slide up Hyalite in an ice filled gully appropriately named “Avalanche Gulch”, and nearby, a small wind slab was triggered by an ice climber. Strong and gusty winds coupled with new snow will create dangerous avalanche conditions throughout southwest Montana.

Karla and I want to give a shout out to the Hyalite community for being so friendly and helpful, and making our trip there in March of 2013 memorable. We’d met Conrad (I don’t want to seem overly familiar, but it seems like Conrad is like the “Governator,” “Arnold,” no last name necessary) at the Banff Film Festival a few months earlier. So we emailed him before our trip to ask which routes were "can't miss." All he can do is ignore us, was our thinking. But he was extremely helpful, and he pretty much settled our tick list.

(Moderate) Climbs in as of 11/25 Upper Greensleeves Hangover G2/G1 Curtains Over Easy Dribbles Silken Twin No doubt a whole bunch more. Go get 'em!

I know people are getting out and climbing but there aren't many reports going up. I always hear people talk about how there are so few recent reports, but those same people don't write anything. Let's keep it going so we can focus on routes that are in, especially this time of year. Headed up to Horsetail Falls today 11/17 since the column could be seen from the trail last Sunday. I figured if it had already formed last week, it should be pretty decent a whole week later.

I truly do not believe there is a more aesthetic, inspiring line than our own Winter Dance. Whit and I along with JT and Gilbert went there yesterday with Whit and I having intentions to climb while JT and Gilbert took photos. What followed was a day for the ages. Winter Dance as a route right now is superb! The first pitch is excellent M4 mixed climbing to the belay. Of course the second pith is the M8 bolt ladder that is a first rate dry tooling pitch with solid but sustained hooking in a steep, fantastic setting.

Thanks to whoever took the time to go recon Flanders and all it's gems. Whit got word the Big Sleep was in and we picked that plumb yesterday. Holy frejoles.... was it good! We linked the first ice pitch and rock traverse into one pitch to the tree which isn't bad and saves time. A 60M will do it. The crux pitch is all the way down and protectable entirely with screws. It is steep as ballz with few rests but there are now descent draft holes to follow. I know we have a long season ahead of us but that may get the prize for the best ice pitch of the year. It's that good!

Whit and I climbed ZA last Sunday. Nice day out. All ice above the first pitch. Short and long screws were placed. The ice was a little funky...The last pitch was some real climbing. Kept things going up to the ridge line. On our way down ran into 2 other climbers on there way to the ridge. Fun day in the mountains. Here are a couple pictures. Going to be a great winter!!

Twin Falls is in good shape as of 10/27 and has been seeing some traffic. It can be thin in spots but takes screws well and you can easily avoid the spots that pour water. It seems to be the only major climb that is in such condition that we could see. Maybe the coming cold snap will hold things together. There are some small climbs here and there that have formed, so it's a good time to go exploring before things fill in with snow.

I tried posting this previously with a bit more info but it never loaded, and so here goes round two: Two new routes from last year: "Straits of Gibraltar" (M9, 30m) March 2013 located lookers right of NW passage. Bolted by Conrad Anker, Sam Magro, Bud Martin, and Kevin Brumbauch. FFA: Sam Magro "Broken Stair" (M5, 35 m) March 2013 located just right of The Elevator Shaft. Climbs rock to right on gear plum line under several bolts, then traverses right to finish on E.S. F.A.