Shores of Pluto

The route is about 130 meters left of Black Magic and is marked by a small evergreen growing in the cliff about 30 feet to the right of the smear. The route had several ascents the season it was first climbed and none since. When first climbed, the rock section was a grade harder. Subsequent ascents and attempts have dislodged a large block, making a sizable foothold. 

Route: This obvious smear tapers to a hose and was first reached via dry tooling up a short crack system leading to a small pine tree (essential protection) on the right. Bring mid-small wires, lots of Spectres and a few screws. Most likely, thin ice will gradually thicken to a narrow ice hose ending in a low angle gully. Climbing the route 2 or 3 weeks after the initial ascents, Alex Lowe and Kris Erickson found thicker and better ice. They also added a difficult direct start over the roof to reach the ice. It is said to be, “good fun, (but) don’t fail (sic).” 

Descent: Rappel the route. Carefully check any fixed pitons at the anchor. On the second ascent, Kelly Cordes had one fall out in his hands. Bring extras.
 

Length and Difficulty
WI: 
5+
Rock rating: 
5.8
Length: 
200
Aspect: 
N
Photos

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