Black Magic Wall

THE BLACK MAGIC WALL is the spiciest wall in the canyon. Of the routes their, only Black Magic has been climbed regularly while the others have rarely been seen before or since their first ascents. They all offer good quality climbing on one of the nicest cliffs in Hyalite.
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The route is about 130 meters left of Black Magic and is marked by a small evergreen growing in the cliff about 30 feet to the right of the smear. The route had several ascents the season it was first climbed and none since. When first climbed, the rock section was a grade harder. Subsequent...

A super strenous scratch-fest in the crux, and some super-pump after the crux; but at least mostly safe by now!

Start up steep ice. Geet good gear before lauching out onto steep rock! then hit some more featured black columnar, then a right facing crack which takes you back to the ice. Barber-pole-squirm-exit move possible near top.

Just right of “Fears,” Smear Today, Gone Tomorrow streaks down a uniform wall. The climb was done over two days with the first establishing the fixed protection (on lead) then climbing it complete (with a leader fall) the next day. It starts at a belay on top of a detached block with a single...

This is the right-hand of two parallel melt-freeze drips that appeared late one season on the far right side of the cliff. It is characterized by a prominent corner on the bottom half. Since few ice climbers are around so late in the season, it is unclear just how often these might come in....

If you were counting the top Hyalite routes on one hand, Black Magic would certainly be included. For years Alex was the only one to ever climb it, dragging along whom ever he could when it was formed. In the mid 1990s, rising standards and enthusiasm started to see more and more ascents...