Smear Today, Gone Tomorrow
Just right of “Fears,” Smear Today, Gone Tomorrow streaks down a uniform wall. The climb was done over two days with the first establishing the fixed protection (on lead) then climbing it complete (with a leader fall) the next day. It starts at a belay on top of a detached block with a single bolt. The description comes directly from Alex as written in the Barrel Ice Book.
Route: Traverse down and to the right 20 feet to ascend 80 feet of difficult (5.11-) drytooling past six bolts on the left side of the ice. Once past the last bolt (marked with cord hanging off it) the climbing becomes much more serious. Protection on a fat ice day may consist of Spectres, stubby screws and a strong head. Chances are most of your gear won’t hold a two foot fall. The ice ranged from 2-5 inches in thickness requiring good bonding between the ice and rock. Bring a selection of pins (mostly thin) for the belay at the top if the ice isn’t thick enough for a solid screw. You might also find a spot where the ice has melted away revealing a pin placement.
Descent: Rappel the route.