If you were counting the top Hyalite routes on one hand, Black Magic would certainly be included. For years Alex was the only one to ever climb it, dragging along whom ever he could when it was formed. In the mid 1990s, rising standards and enthusiasm started to see more and more ascents creating something of an upper-end mixed trade route. More recently, drought has taken a toll, and it rarely forms.
Route: The first half follows a great crack on solid rock taking plenty of good gear. A good rest on a small ledge marks the point ice must reach for the route to be “formed.” Difficulty for the top half is largely dependant on conditions and thickness of ice.
Descent: Rappel the route.