Smears for Fears

This is the right-hand of two parallel melt-freeze drips that appeared late one season on the far right side of the cliff. It is characterized by a prominent corner on the bottom half. Since few ice climbers are around so late in the season, it is unclear just how often these might come in. Given the right pattern of cold, sun and precipitation, they likely form very quickly and disappear nearly as fast. | Route: Climb a poorly protected corner (5.9/5.10) to a rotten break below an overhanging smear. Three bolts on right side of the smear lead through an overhanging section. Mixed climbing for 40 feet reaches another bolt on right, followed by 50 feet on very thin ice and mixed terrain to a good ledge. A 15 m WI 4 pitch ends in a bowl below the trees. | Descent: One 60 m rappel from trees.

Length and Difficulty
WI: 
6+
Rock rating: 
5.11b
Length: 
250
Aspect: 
NE

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