Cooke Ice conditions

Submitted by kephoto on Wed, 10/25/2006 - 09:00
I spent last weekend in the Cooke area hiking around to see what was forming. Cloe and I hiked to the base of the Hydro Monster but it was just a little shy of coming in. Should be there by the end of the week. Several of the Barronette routes were very close to forming. Also drove down to the Pilot Creek area where numerous routes are well on there way to being in. Very nice dark, three pitched, brown booger of a climb was almost climbable. Looks like a great start to the season. kristoffer Erickson

It IS a terrific season. I've been checking out climbs throughout the area for the past few weeks and we're looking GREAT. Here's what IN: Silver Gate Climbs left (huge), middle (good), right (thin). Barronette Falls appears to be in Tons of other Barronette climbs forming, too many to list Slottery on Republic is in and thin Climbs below Abiathar appear to be coming in nicely Silver Falls/Plumb not yet but starting Park Gate thin but forming up well Great little practice area below Ampitheater in!! Come visit with me in our Silver Gate shop for more detailed and up to date conditions. We're open in Silver Gate, look for the [b]SILVERTIP MOUNTAIN CENTER [/b]sign. We rent and demo tools too! I also have an updated conditions/weather forecast on my site Its the only weather forecast we have found that we can rely upon... See you soon! Jay

The ice around Cooke City took a good thumping along with the republican party this last week. The good news is that with all of the rain and warm temps there is a lot of flow. With low temps in the teens all weekend the ice will be great again soon. Jay

Conditions are improving. The Silver Gate/ Park gate climbs are coming back quickly but are still thin. Lots of snow and wind the last couple of days. Climbed a fun route today that will be good until it is buried in snow. Thin at the top. Will get down to the park soon with more info. Jay

Conditions are good. Most everything is thin so bring some stubby screws. Here's whats in: Silver Gate Center (thin) Slottery on Republic is in and thin Park Gate thin (fatter than its been) Barronette Falls appears to be in good Dancing with the hippo looks great (scary) with nice blue ice (from the highway) Great little practice area below Ampitheater in!! A lot of other north facing climbs are more than likely in as well. Jay

The Hydromonster is one of the few climbs you can NOT see from the road. It will most surely be in though. If anything is even close to being formed on Baronnette then the Abiathar climbs will be in (the ones on the East face anyway). They get NO sun. It would be a very safe bet that both Hydro and Marlboro Madness (which you can see from the road, barely) are in. The later is a great route and best done before it snows again. The Monster is one of the few climbs in the area without avy hazard so it'll be safe and sound the rest of the winter. A route that is not in "Winter Dance" but in Ron's "Big Sky Ice" guide called "The Slottery" near Cooke City sounds to be in (it is a hard mixed chimney). There hasn't been ice on it for years (and why I left it out of "Winter Dance") but it might be a good route for those Cooke Citiers looking for something different. My spidey senses tell me it could be a good route. Happy Hunting.

Climbed Hydromonster today (Tues) and the House that Jack built. The ice was soft on H-Monster and thin at the top. The House that Jack built was better ice. Climbed a great new 3 pitch route yesterday (Monday). 2 fun pitches of WI 3 leading to a WI 4 pillar. It is a new classic with fabulous views of the Beartooths. Conditions are good. It has been warm for two days so there is a lot of flow. It should continue to freeze so conditions should just get better. Stop in the shop in Silver Gate for more info. Photos are going up on my website. Jay

Jim, the route is 3.7 miles east of Cooke City. The last pitch is just visible on the new highway. I have missed this climb for years. There is also another climb next to it that I have climbed for years that is a good early season climb. Both will have extreme avalanche danger once the snow gets deep or unstable. Conditions are just getting better. Climbed Dancing with the Hippo today (wed) in good conditions, thin at the top. More conditions and photos at Jay

The new route sounds awesome. I spent Thanksgiving down in Silver Gate... Barronette routes are in pretty fat. Climbed a route I've never been to a bit to the right of "silver gate right"... seems as worthy as left, center and right... somewhat of a delicate icicle at the bottom but steep and fat above for 80 feet... then another 70 feet of moderate tube climbing... I was pleasantly surprised! That thing have a name anyone? [img] City 06 024w.jpg[/img]

Jay and Conor, There are a number of ice routes in the Cooke area that are not in "Winter Dance." I have quite a bite of info including all the routes around Pilot Creek and the Sunlight Basin Road. Next time I see you guys we'll have to pow-wow on what's what. Cheers, JoJo

It has been awhile since we posted Cooke City conditions but things are looking great. The Plumb is in and Silver Falls too, climbed it last week. Park Gate is big and fat. Barronette is all still great, I?m sure, but since it has been snowing for the past 2 days, I haven?t actually seen it. Triplet was great last week. Silver Gate Climbs in with center very fat ice. I have never seen the climb to the right of ?Silver Gate right? form up. It usually gets buried in snow or doesn?t get enough flow in the fall. This year was unusually warm and wet-- relative to the past 15 years I?ve been climbing around here. Don?t think it has a name yet but its possible it formed and I missed it? Looks thin and brittle now from lack of flow. Stop in or call if you?re curious about specific climbs or avalanche conditions. Jay

Jay- I'll try and upload a photo of the ice as we climbed it that day... This is the only good photo I have of the whole flow... it was a breakable pillar at the bottom, but once you get 15 or 20 feet up, you can swing hard. If it hasn't come in for 15 years, it should be called Rare Form (WI 5). [img][/…] Next time I'm in Silver Gate I'll be sure to drop into your place. Thanks for the info! Conor

Last week I went up Silver Falls. It's in pretty good shape, save for a crack which bisects the climb about a third of the way up and a little rotten ice on the right side against the rock. Ice is solid though (dinner plates a bit). Seems like a bunch of climbs are in good shape here- though the southern slopes here have been showing high avalanche hazards.

anyone been out to cooke city this past week? How are the conditions?

Most flows are really big now from last week's warm temps. Ice on the south side is really good now, Baronette looks good from what I've seen too, though it's been socked in for the last couple days. We've been getting tons of snow here, might be something to consider when you're planning.

Hydromonster is big now with a lot of chandeliered ice on the left. Ice is getting pretty soft and rotten in sections. Silver Creek Falls is getting a bit rotten too, though parts are still good it's sounding a bit hollow. Everything on Baronette is huge, though I'd assume the ice is getting softer there as well. Cheers, AR

We climbed the Park Gate today and found it in great condition. I think I left my Viper tool leash at the rappel station and would gladly buy a beer for someone if they happened upon it. My cell is 406-599-8743.

Seth, I climbed the Park Gate climb last week and did not see your leash anywere. Where did you rap from? There was fresh snow on everything. It was in the teens this morning (4/20) with quite a bit of fresh snow yesterday. Silver Gate climbs, Practice Area, and Park Gate are all still good. Anything in the sun with high flow is done for. On a warm day last week avalanches came over the rimrock on one of the Silver Gate climbs. Jay