Pine Creek conditions

Submitted by kephoto on Sat, 11/24/2007 - 16:48
Whether it?s WI3 or WI6, when you tie into the rope and finish a pitch 200ft later it usually means you've just completed a great pitch of ice climbing. Green gully is one such pitch and Saturday provided a great day of ice climbing for the Pine Creek area. Conditions are quickly growing with the recent cold temps, still a little thin at the top requiring some mixed climbing but plenty of solid screw placements are found lower on the route. Stubbies and a small selection of thin rock protection could be useful. With $1000.00 going to participants of the open class competition next Sat. in Hyalite no one should be climbing anywhere but Hyalite, chances are you will walk away with something. If you can?t bare the thought of winning money and great prizes for a standard day of ce climbing and have never climbed in Pine creek, this next weekend could provide a nice alternative to Hyalite. From the approach to Green Gully, Blue is also looking thin but climbable; East of Paradise was not quite in; also the ice for the Incubus/Succubus is dangling down about 15 ft and would more than likely provide a nice adventure. A short 30 min further up the South fork of Pine creek will reveal several other fine alternatives to climb. Cross the creek just after you break off the main Pine creek trail and stay on the right hand side of Pine creek as you walk up stream, there should be a nice fire trail that was cut last year. Several clearings reveal the climbing above on both sides of the canyon. For South fork route info See last years posts for new route info or Winter Dance. Kristoffer Erickson

My friend Dave and I went out there on Friday as well and ended up climbing Blue and doing some monkeying on Green... the top of Green definitely looked like slim pickins! Blue was great ice for the most part with a wet/thin ramp in the middle. Word to the wise- watch yourselves on the approach up to the gullies... there's 6-8 inches of snow on loose talus... perfect conditions for broken ankles or banged up shins and/or faces. [img]http://montanaice.com/forums/user_images/Thanksgiving07017s.jpg[/img]

Climbed Green and Blue today. Watched a small spindrift slide come off on the approach @8:30. Got the full value avi wash 15 sec beat down 30 feet from the top 45 min later. Lucky for me all the "big" debris was to my left. Both routes were fun, Green is brittle, Blue is sticky wet. Watch yourself.

climbed both pine creek falls yesterday, bottom was good and wet, the top one was thin at the top, white twister was a bit brittle, fun day road in was good