It has been a great couple of days recruiting some good samaritins to head up and bypass good climbing days to do some community service. Three new sets of anchors have been put. The first to go in was on Through Four More which is in great shape and much safer to TR now. The second was on the right side of Mummy II up in the cave above the easy right ramp. This offers a nice TR or directional to the lower part of easy climbing. Lastly we finally cleaned up the Scepter tree and put in a great anchor directly above the last ice step. It is perfectly top roped with a 60 M rope. Thank Conrad for the bolt donations.
- Log in to post comments
Excellent work Adam. The
Excellent work Adam. The sceptre belay is full on osha fatties. Plus it saves the rope!
Salute to the good sams...
...for the new anchors! Newbie question: Is it a mandatory Mummy II and/or Scepter lead to set up a toprope on those routes? Are there lowering rings, by the way?
Phil, You can walk south
Phil, You can walk south from the Mummy and pass through a small step to gain access to the Mummy. It takes a bit but isn't that bad. From the Mummy you can go over to the Sceptre with out too much difficulty. Both bolted belays are designed with 70 m ropes in mind.
awesome!! thanks, adam!!
awesome!! thanks, adam!! The rap on the sceptre, (and the belay), I am sure are much more comfortable - rather than being bent over fighting the tree belaying the second.
walk around
Phil,
It is possible to walk around the right side of Mummy II. There is mandatory 4th class with a left trending traverse. I found this by accident years ago when a lost and found dog met us at the top of Mummy II. I believe there is an icy gully just around the corner of Mummy II. Go up the gully and billy goat up and left through the trees. This drops you off at the top of Mummy II. From there a person can TR Mummy II and or walk around to the Scepter. The best way to access the Scepter is to stay high and descend through a natural arch in the rock. If you need help contact Montana Alpine Guides.
Mummy II Top Roping
Personally, I think it is better if Mummy II and Scepter are best left to those that can at the minimum at least lead climb up Mummy II. Based on my experience, there is more than enough traffic on Mummy II that by the time some one scrambles around to the top to set up a top-rope they will likely be rapping over someone else that has shown up and is either interested in lead climbing or actually started up the pitch. And if you can't at least lead Mummy II, top roping on the Scepter is going to be over your head. In my humble opinon, if you want to top rope stick to the Genesis area.