General Hyalite Observations - Main Canyon

Submitted by JoJo on Wed, 11/23/2011 - 18:42

Climbed the Thrill is Gone today and it is in fine, classic mixed shape. Quite a great day in Hyalite.

The 50 degree temps in Bozmeman don't hurt Hyalite ice (shhh, don't tell anyone). The wind today, however, is hurting some of the big "dream factories" high on the east side of the canyon. Zach Attack (still looks climbable), Mummy IV and Winter Dance all look to be sublimating away to some degree. Mummy III looked worthy but I'm sure the gully is loaded so be careful up there.

In general it is not looking like a good early season for hard ice and mixed routes in the main canyon. No ice on Black Magic or Home Field Advantage (or whatever was there went away as it's one of the sunniest routes in the canyon).

The more moderate flows however are looking juicy so there are lots of routes to do. The routes I could see today that are in: Dribbles, The Western, Over Easy, Curtains, Land of the Lost, all the climbs right of Mummy II, Mummy II/Scepter, all the Ampitheater climbs, G1 (of course), G2, Hangover, Through Four More, Upper Greensleeves, Sleeping Giant, Elevator Shaft, Fat One, The Scrappy One, Itchy and Scratchy, Thrill is Gone. I'm sure Magically Delish is good (doesn't need ice) but can't say about Good Looking One or Jeff's Left and Right as I didn't walk over there.

Roman Candle looks doable as do the routes in the Bingo Cave. The Bingo World pillar was actually touching today but literally swaying in the breeze. It has come down farther right than usual so Northwest Passage (which doesn't actually need ice) and Inglorious Basterds (which does need ice) are both good to go but the last bolt on Bulldog World is MILES from the ice. It looks like Exapnding Horizons is making a good effort and there are the usual icicles garnishing Come and Get It.

With months ahead of us I'm sure many more routes will come and go. Have a great Holiday everyone and see you in Hyalite.

 

 I am heading over this weekend and was hoping to get an idea of how things were looking. I am interested in Crypt Orchid, Cave and Gully, feedint the cat, Mummy Cooler II, The fat one and hangover?

I also would like to know generall avy coonditions. I know there is a deep faceted layer and tonight (wednesday night) there is supposed to be up to seven inches of snow. If it does dump, should conditions settle down by saturday? Are the above named climbs generally safe in avy conditions?

Any and all information is greatly appreciated.

Zach

all of those climbs are well in (except mabey cave and gully its still a touch mixed at the bottom and i didn't look up for the top of the pitch but matrix has been getting climbed) and avy conditions.. call 587-6981 they will clue you in.

zach,

all of said routs are in, but you will find a stout start for cave and gully requiring some mixed moves off the ground. all of said routs, except for mummy II, have no real avy potential. mummy II has a potential of a slide if conditions are right, but would not be triggerd by climbers topping out. its threat is from a gully higher up. check out http://mtavalanche.com/current for current conditions.

I can't say about Home Field Advantage if it's in or not. I will say I'm sometimes surprised when hearing stories of folks climbing it without much ice. One person's definition of "in" is always different than the next.

For example, Bourbon Tan (M8) recently got repeated without any ice over the lip. This is the bomb bay chimney that is on the far right side of the cliff extending left from Hangover.

The wide yellow smear and black streak in the middle of the cliff is now a great route and good to go. It's called "Whiskey Dick" M6+ 70m (two pitches). FA: Kyler Pallister, Josh Apple.

Several recent repeats have confirmed it's three star quality. The + rating is mostly due to a poor feet, bouldery start (the crux) through some wicked, yet well protected, Hyalite choss. Otherwise the route is on delicious Hyalite cobbles with wicked climbing. Scramble up to a ledge and a two bolt anchor. Climb through the opening bulge and past four fixed pieces to a higher ledge. Three bolts lead left across the headwall into a groove with three more bolts. Easy yellow ice leads to a fixed anchor (35 m to the ground).

A second pitch steps up and right on easy but run out rock (M4+) to a hanging ice smear with thin ice transfering from rock onto the ice. Continue up to the trees. An alternative second pitch would be going out left onto the wider ice flow. There is a rap sling on a tree (installed in March 2011) to get you back to the bolt-anchor.

Have at it and be safe!

Cheers,

JoJo

I'm not sure if this link will work, (I'm trying to post from my phone). I led HFA last month in fun and delicate conditions, as seen in the photo. I highly recommend it if it has any ice.
Hyalite Canyon Ice Conditions