New Routes: Alpha Blondy, Hang Time

During the week of December 13 through the 17 Pat Wolfe and my self established two new routes on the East face of Palace Butte: Alpha Blondy and Hang Time. Both of these routes were bolted on lead. We used a hand drill on Alpha and a 24 volt Dewalt on Hang Time. These routes are best viewed from the Dribbles area. They are the two daggers hanging. A very nice trail leads up to them, it breaks off the main path before the dribbles approach. You will notice a stick carn. We have no digital camera so I will put some photos at Northers Lights and Barrel for your viewing pleasure. [b]Alpha Blondy WI6 A2[/b] Dec. 13 If you read the description of Kansas Corn Field in the "Winter Dance" book it speaks of a yellow dagger hanging to the right of the Corn Field. That is Alpha Blondy. It's formed huge, compared to other years. It's located just left of a huge, chunky, broken corner. Find the dagger and head stright for it Pitch one: WI 4 climbes thin ice up a ramp like system for 35 meters to a obvious belay cove in the cliff. You will find a bolt that we drilled for the anchor. We backed it up with a specter. Pat nor I would object to another bolt or two at the belay. If you need one I will give it to you. Pitch two: A2 WI6 You will notice a seam going out the roof of the belay cove, climbers left. A move or two on blades and specters will get you to the first bolt, your welcome! Another bolt will be noticed about 20 feet or so above that point. Nail to it, clip it and climb out of the aiders onto very steep ice. The crux was gaining the ice, it was a strech. Pull around to the front of the dagger and climb to the top. Rappel from a "V" thred a full 60 meters back to the ground Rack: 8 Screws, 15 draws(clip everything), 3 KB's from short to long, 2 baby angles, LA's short to long, 2 specters, and proper aid equiptment. We were with out. [b]Hang Time M6 A0 WI6[/b] This climb is awsome! It's located lookers left of Alpha Blondy about 200 yards. It's the big blue hanging dagger. How could you not climb this thing? This took us two days. On the 15th Pat and I bolted the 40 foot roof with 5 inch bolts. On the 17th we returned in sub zero temps and brought Nate Opp along for extra energy. We finished the route to the top. Nate gave the route two thumbs up and said it was a classic. Rumor has it that in huge fat spring conditions this dagger touched down and Alex soloed it. That means it was a 60 meter vertical pillar. :shock: As it hangs now it's got about 70 feet to go. Take a close look before you get started and find the first bolt from the ground. Hard start option: M6 Climb a grove up to the cave, about 25 feet. A boulder start on supper thin and steep ice with no pro. We only top roped this for we had our sites on the dagger above. We traversed into the cave from the lookers left (very easy). Pitch one: A0 With the belayer on the ground travers into the cave or climb M6 direct and place a screw in the flow located in the very back, put a very long runner on it. Travers out of the cave climbers right toward the only bad rock you have to deal with. You are heading for a nine bolt aid ladder that will carry you out the 40 foot horizontial roof. The first bolt is not a free B. Take you time and boulder it out. The first bolt is located right next to a large marble bulge that is closest to you as you move right. It's solid. You can clip by leaning out on this bomber marble. It looks like a survalience bubble you seen in stores. From there you are aboard and hanging out. Clip 9 bolts and one blade to the ice edge, from there you step out of the aiders and climb moderate ground for 10 feet to the ice ledge belay. The belay is made up of two bolts and a drilled angle, you can also place screws. The follower needs to re-aid the ladder on belay for it's way to steep to jug. The leader can lower the aid gear to the second man, that way you don't need two sets Pitch two: WI 6 (35 meters) Off the belay clip the drilled angle for you first piece and climb very delicate, steep, tecnical ice using the wall for steming. Eventually you must climb out from under the curtin onto the front of the dagger and scamper to the top to a tree belay. Rappel double ropes back to the ground. Rack: 15 long draws and runners (clip it all), 1 short KB, 1long KB, 9 screws, and double ropes. Have fun, Whit P.S. Both of these routes could one day go free, but first they need some ascents. Get out there and climb these. E mail me if you have any questions or if you need a bolt for Alpha Blondy.