Completed a long new route on the sizeable face immediately right of Comet Alley today with Pete Thompson. The route is invisible from the parking lot, and gradually comes into view up the trail, with the top pitches being visible before the bottom ones come into view at the meadow about 15 minutes up the trail. Approach as for Comet/Asteroid, and cut right on a large ramping ledge about 100' up, after entering the tight couloir of the Alley. The route starts approx. 200' out on this ledge.
The first pitch ascends a tight slot with a cruxy lower pillar. Good steep ice with chunky conglomerate on each side, leads to the lower-angled runnel of poor snice. 40m WI 4, M4
We bypassed a potential second pitch directly above as it looked largely unprotected. Better, bolder climbers and good conditions should allow this to go. Cut right up snow and easy rock and gain a ledge below the next cliff, which can be followed left to the base of the next pitch.
A short, steep curtain with a sketchy rollover is followed by steep snow, and more good moderate ice. 40m WI 4
A beautiful short pillar with good stemming. 20m WI 4
Rap the route, or traverse left along the large ledge to the base of Comet/Asteroid. We finished up the Asteroid which was a pleasant excursion. The Comet is in too, with both the bottom and top pillars nice and steep.
All in all a grand day in Hyalite! We named the line Misguided Youth,
WI4 M4. Carry stubbies, spectres, some pins, and assorted rock gear. Can't upload pics yet, will try again later on.
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